Follow-up to our first video on the Czapek Manufacture. We now present the next chapter – the suppliers. Again, we were fortunate that Czapek CEO, Xavier de Roquemaurel goes in-depth to show us how the enamel dials are made at Donzé Cadrans and how the titanium case and bracelets are made at ABConcept & ABProduct.
New Video: Czapek Manufacture – the suppliers
As open as Xavier was in the main house manufacture tour, where he held back no secrets of the making of Czapek watches, he was the same exuberant self when he took me to visit three of his suppliers. The first is rather famous, and especially known for their grand feu enamel dials – Donzé Cadrans. The second is ABConcept & ABProduct, a specialist in 3D machining. And the third is GT Cadrans, possibly the largest and most prestigious maker of stone dials in the industry.
Donzé Cadrans for the Goutte d’Eau grand feu enamel dial
We are back at Donzé Cadrans and was given a special look at how the Goutte d’Eau grand feu enamel dials are made. The dials are dusted with blue enamel, but after firing in the oven at about 700C, it comes out green. And will take a few minutes to cool to the blue we see on the final dial. The trick is to know when to remove the dial from the oven. For example this estimation is made more complicated by the weather (moisture in the air affects how long it takes to cure the enamel in the oven). In the video, you will see this entire process.
ABConcept & ABProduct for titanium cases and dials
We also visited a Ab Concepts & Ab Products, two companies housed in the same premises with the same owners. The process where titanium cases and bracelets are designed, machined, polished and assembled is shown. While the steel Antarctique cases and bracelets are made in-house in Czapek, they outsource the titanium cases and bracelets as these require special techniques and know-how.
Ab is also a well known authority for the additive manufacture. They are able to do 3D printing in metal as well as in resin. At the manufacture, I saw the Minimilian figurines for MB&F being made and readied for shipping.
The YouTube video
GT Cadrans for speciality dials
I was also treated to a spectacular visit to GT Cadrans, part of the Gemmes Tech Group, who makes special dials for Czapek and other manufacturers. I am not able to mention names of the other maisons, but these were the biggest watch brands in the world. And for one of them, their entire stock of very high quality turquoise is handled by GT Cadrans where all the maison’s turquoise dials are made in this facility in Lonay.
GT Cadrans themselves also carry a huge stock of stones. These are cut according to their design requirements, and made into the dials. I was not allowed photography of the processes.
I also witnessed and helped Xavier and his designer select specific stone dials, and the orientation it was to appear on the watches. Though I have been to many manufactures over the years, this experience was new to me.
The patterns on the dials above are made over mother of pearl and colouring is applied by hand using this special horsehair brush to create the swirls and patterns on the dial.
Concluding thoughts
So here we are, at the conclusion of my two day trip to La Chaux-de-Fonds and Geneva to visit Czapek and her suppliers. What really came through is this is a company and a brand with a true heart. Czapek is a family who welcomed me warmly, and allowed me to be a part of the manufacture. The openness and honesty which I saw throughout the manufacture, and the entire company…indeed, I met almost all the employees, was heartening. And came away even more impressed with Xavier and his team of merry folks than ever before. Not only are their watches magnificent, this maison has a true soul! This is a watch brand to support!
