The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” has been a significant addition to the brand’s lineup, offering a blend of robust functionality and a design that pays homage to its military heritage. The watch is a result of Tudor’s collaboration with the French Naval Aviation, designed to meet the rigorous demands of naval pilots.
Press release with commentary in italics.
Tudor PELAGOS FXD GMT “Zulu Time”
The Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT Zulu Time x Marine Nationale (reference 2542G247NU) is priced at EUR 4,690, USD 4,625 or CHF 4,350.
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Aesthetically, the Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” maintains the classic tool-watch appearance with its matte-black dial, snowflake hands, and indices. The orange arrow GMT hand is a new addition, stretching to the minute track for enhanced legibility. The date window at 3 o’clock is tinted beige, matching the bezel’s numerals and contributing to the watch’s cohesive design.
The watch’s 42mm case is constructed from Grade 2 titanium, with a Grade 5 titanium caseback, ensuring a lightweight yet durable wear. The fixed strap bars, as opposed to spring bars, add to the watch’s ruggedness, a feature that is essential for military-grade equipment. The matte ceramic bezel insert complements the overall aesthetic while providing functionality with its bi-directional movement.
At the heart of the Pelagos FXD GMT is the Calibre MT5652-U automatic movement, a manufacture movement from partner Kenissi, which has earned the Master Chronometer certification from METAS. This certification ensures a higher standard than COSC, with stringent testing for accuracy and an impressive magnetic resistance of 15,000 gauss.
The fabric strap, finished in what Tudor calls “flight-suit green,” not only adds a touch of color but also provides comfort and durability for everyday wear. This choice of strap material is practical for naval aviators who require reliability in various conditions.
In conclusion, the Tudor Pelagos FXD GMT “Zulu Time” marks Tudor’s commitment to producing watches that are not only aesthetically pleasing but also meet the functional needs of professional users. Its military-inspired design, coupled with the precision of the Master Chronometer-certified movement, makes it a noteworthy contender in the realm of tool watches.
Press release
The Pelagos FXD platform, initially developed with a French Navy specialist unit, has now expanded to suit the needs of the French Naval Aviation, with the addition of a function that allows aviators and flight support personnel to keep track of “Zulu time” in addition to local time and a third time zone. The new Pelagos FXD GMT is Master Chronometer-certified by METAS to ensure maximum precision and reliability in the adverse real-world conditions endured by personnel of the Aéronautique Navale.
Since the 1950s, TUDOR has been officially supplying the Marine Nationale (French Navy) with reliable diving watches used to carry out the daring duties of naval troops for decades. The first Pelagos FXD model – “FXD” referring to the extra robust FiXeD strap bars of the watch case – was introduced in 2021, continuing the legacy of TUDOR and the French Navy. After years of use in the field, the Pelagos FXD platform has a proven track record of service. In 2024, the FXD family is expanding to the meet the needs of the Aéronautique Navale (French Naval Aviation), the force responsible for naval aviation operations. The Pelagos FXD GMT can keep track of time in up to three time zones at once, one being Zulu time, the military name for Universal Time Coordinated (UTC) and the standard reference time for all aviators—a valuable tool when undertaking crucial missions. Zulu time corresponds to zero-meridian time or the time at zero degrees of longitude, commonly known as Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). It’s standardized use in global aviation prevents confusion in communications between nations and time zones. The word “Zulu” is the standardized phonetic alphabet code word used in aviation for “Z” or the first letter of the word “zero”.
Zulu time is tracked by the highly legible bright orange hand that completes a full lap around the dial every 24 hours. Once set, this hand typically is not reset, allowing sailors of the French Naval Aviation to check the global aviation reference time at a glance. The angular hour hand, commonly nicknamed “Snowflake,” indicates local time. It is set through the winding crown and “jumps” in increments of one hour for easy setting when changing time zones. The date changes when the hour hand passes midnight, in either direction—backwards or forwards. A third time zone can be checked using the 24-hour luminous bi-directional bezel and the orange Zulu time hand.
TUDOR AND THE FRENCH NAVY
TUDOR chose to join forces publicly with the French Navy in 2021, thus continuing a relationship that dates back to 1956. Back then, the Groupe d’Étude et de Recherches Sous-Marines (G.E.R.S.), a scientific body attached to the French Navy and based in Toulon, took delivery of some Oyster Prince Submariner watches in order to assess them in real-life situations. They were references 7922 and 7923, both waterproof to 100 metres (330 ft) and fitted with self-winding and manual movements, respectively. The waterproofness of these watches was judged to be “perfect” and their performance “entirely correct” by the G.E.R.S. commanding officer at the time. Persuaded by the potential of the instruments offered by the Genevan brand, he quickly placed more orders, enabling TUDOR to attain the status of “official supplier to the French Navy” in 1961.
TUDOR divers’ watches continued to be developed and the French Navy would use many of the brand’s timepieces over the following decades. Today, the most famous TUDOR divers’ watch used by the French Navy is the reference 9401, with its iconic blue dial and bezel. Engraved on the case back with the initials “M.N.” followed by the year of issue, the watches were delivered in two configurations: first with “Snowflake” hands and hour markers and later, with triangular hour markers. This model was launched in the mid-’70s and was supplied to the French Navy until the 1980s. It continued to be used into the 21st century, particularly at the French Navy’s diving school, as well as by combat swimmers.
In 2021, reviving this historic collaboration, TUDOR released a new technical watch for underwater navigation developed in conjunction with the French Navy’s combat swimmers. Based on a set of specifications that are as precise as they are demanding, the Pelagos FXD model introduced many functional features that were new to TUDOR, including its distinctive fixed strap bars machined into the main body of the 42mm titanium case for increased robustness and reliability. Shaped as an extension of the lugs, they are key to the model’s characteristic silhouette. With the Pelagos FXD GMT, TUDOR and the French navy write a new chapter in their extensive shared history, deploying the FXD platform as a robust solution to naval aviation time-tracking needs.
FORM FOLLOWS FUNCTION
The cockpit of a Rafale Marine jet, the bay of an Atlantique 2 long-range patrol plane or the air-traffic tower aboard a helicopter carrier all have one thing in common, besides being part of the French Naval Aviation force. They all operate in Zulu time. To easily keep track of Zulu time, TUDOR has developed the Pelagos FXD GMT. Based on its tried and tested FXD platform, this watch is all about functionality, featuring a robust yet lightweight grade 2 titanium case with fixed strap bars that is waterproof to 200m and fully brushed for a matt effect. The 42 millimeter case, housing a high-performance mechanical movement, features a high contrast dial and colour-coded hands, the 24-hour Zulu time arrow-head hand made distinctive thanks to the use of a bright orange lacquer. These attributes combine to allow for enhanced legibility in dark environments or at night when the potent luminous material of its hands, hour-markers and bezel allow for instant gathering of time-tracking information. Furthermore, the hour-markers as well as the hour, minute and seconds hands share a blue luminescence contrasting with the green luminous emission of the 24-hour hand and graduation on the 24-hour bezel. A detail that allows for an instinctive read of Zulu time, any time. If you add the time and date-setting practicality of the MT5652-U Manufacture Calibre to the above, with winding crown-operated, jumping-hour coupled date, you have a time-tracking tool fit for any sky-bound mission.
And to highlight the Pelagos FXD GMT’s official commission with the French Navy and its aviation arm, its grade 5 titanium case back bears the logo of the Aéronautique navale (French Naval Aviation) composed of a winged anchor topped with a star, as well as a historically inspired engraving of “M.N.24” for “Marine nationale 2024” indicating the year of production of each batch of the watch.
THE MANUFACTURE CALIBRE MT5652-U
The Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U that drives the Pelagos FXD GMT model illustrates the technical development process signature of TUDOR, drawing on adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions, in this case a GMT indication, rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.
This movement offers the general look and feel of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres with dedicated sun laser design and bears the “Master Chronometer” mention on its bridges, emphasising its superior performance. Its monobloc rotor is made of tungsten. It is openworked and features the laser radial grooving and sand-blasted details distinctive to TUDOR Master Chronometer calibers. A combination of finishings can be found on the bridges as well.
The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds and TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches, METAS requires a fully assembled Master Chronometer-certified watch to run within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0/+5). Not only is the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U certified to be more accurate, it is also rated as anti-magnetic, making it impervious to magnetic fields below 15,000 gauss.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5652-U is “weekend-proof”, able to run for about 65 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to wind or reset it.
