Sartory-Billard releases the SB04-E Tantoster, with a tantalum ghilloché dial in a steel watch. This is possibly the first tantalum dial we have ever seen.
Further information with press release data and our commentary in italics.
New: Sartory-Billard SB04-E Tantoster
The Sartory-Billard Tantoster REF: SB04E1TANTOSTER retails at USD 6,850. Limited Edition of 10 pieces exclusively through Oster Jewelers in Denver.
Commentary
The use of tantalum as a metal in watches is rather rare. This is because tantalum itself is a rare metal, prized for density , corrosion resistance and the dark grey-blue hue with a purple iridescense. The first record of the use of tantalum in watchmaking is in an Audemars Piguet wristwatch case, made on the behest of King Carlos and later commercially as the Ref. 14486TR in tantalum and gold two tone case/bracelet circa 1998. TR in the model designation signifies the case using tantalum and rose gold. The 14486TR is reportly a tiny production run of only 215 pieces and is equipped with a dial documented in the archives as “vertical Dracon tantalum”. It is not clear if the watch features a tantalum dial or the description refers to the case and bracelet. Another occurrence of tantalum in the dial is in the J.N. Shapiro Infinity Tantalum. Here Shapiro uses tantalum for the case and chapter ring, with the main dial in either palladium or ruthenium. The guilloché pattern, for which Shapiro is famous for, is only applied to the main dial.
Thus it is with interest that we note that this special Sartory-Billard features a tantalum dial. Not only is the choice of material unique, but it also features a special guilloché with a unique pattern. Sartory-Billard tells us that the material is so hard, that the machine head used to cut the guilloché has to be replaced multiple times, even though only 10 pieces are to be offered.
The movement used is by La Joux-Perret, and looks de rigeur, though a bit small for the 39.5mm case size. Though not rare or particularly well finished, this will prove to be a workhorse movement providing long years of consistent service with good accuracy.
The final price of USD 6.9k is rather reasonable, given the rarity of the dial.
Release details
Independent watchmaker Sartory-Billard unveils the SB04-E “TANTOSTER”, a limited edition created in collaboration with Oster Jewelers.
This ten-piece series celebrates the intersection of artistry, innovation, and material mastery — marking the first time a guilloché “grand panier” pattern has been engraved in a production series of watches on tantalum, one of the rarest and most demanding metals on Earth.
The Dial Like No Other
At the heart of the TANTOSTER lies its dial, where the timeless beauty of guilloché meets the uncompromising strength of tantalum.
The “grand panier” basket-weave design, rooted in horological tradition, appears here for the very first time on this noble metal.
The result is a dial of remarkable depth and elegance, where light dances across the woven geometry in subtle, ever-changing reflections.
The outer minutes dial is made of sunray brushed tantalum with a light fumé gradient on the outside.
A Shared Vision
Founded in Denver, Colorado, Oster Jewelers has become one of America’s foremost destinations for independent watchmaking.
Guided by a deep commitment to artistry and rare creation, Oster connects collectors with exceptional timepieces that embody both tradition and innovation.
The partnership with Sartory-Billard naturally extends this vision, culminating in the TANTOSTER — a watch that unites classical craftsmanship with daring material exploration.
Its name, “TANTOSTER,” is a playful clin d’œil combining Tantalum and Oster, a subtle tribute to the collaboration at its core.
Tantalum – The Metal of Rarity and Strength
Tantalum is one of the world’s rarest metals, prized for its density, corrosion resistance, and unique hue. Its scarcity and the difficulty of machining it make it a true connoisseur’s material.
During the creation of the ten TANTOSTER dials, the machine head was replaced multiple times, as tantalum relentlessly wore down each tool — a process demanding both patience and precision.
By engraving tantalum with the refined grand panier guilloché, Sartory-Billard transforms this most unyielding of metals into a poetic canvas, merging endurance with artistry, permanence with elegance.
The SB04-E Signature
As part of the SB04-E line, the TANTOSTER carries the collection’s defining traits: a 39.5mm steel case with flowing curves and mirror-polished surfaces, water resistance to 100 meters, and luminous diamond-cut hands and indexes for optimal legibility in all conditions.
Each piece is individually crafted with Sartory-Billard’s signature approach: sincere, personal, and uncompromising in its pursuit of coherence and beauty.
A Collector’s Milestone
Produced in a strictly limited series of 10, the SB04-E “TANTOSTER” is available exclusively through Oster Jewelers in Denver.
It represents not only a collaboration but a true milestone in modern watchmaking: the first tantalum guilloché dials produced in series, uniting heritage and innovation for collectors who seek the extraordinary.
Sartory-Billard Tantoster Technical Specifications
- Name: SB04-E Tantoster – Limited Edition for Oster Jewelers
- REF: SB04E1TANTOSTER
- Case: Stainless steel, 39.5 mm, alternating polished and brushed surfaces
- Dial: tantalum dial guilloché with the traditional « grand panier » motif
- Movement: Swiss-made La Joux-Perret automatic movement, 68-hour power reserve
- Water Resistance: 100 meters
- Straps included:
- Scarlett Paris leather strap in Olive green with mustard lining
- Sartory-Billard grey rubber strap with the logo buckle
- Edition: Limited to 10 pieces
