New: Richard Mille RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire Collection

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It’s a brand new year! Many would wonder what is both a jewelry & a horological masterpiece? Richard Mille RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire Collection is the answer to the question.

Press Release information with commentary in italics

New: Richard Mille RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire Collection

Commentary

Say what you want about Richard Mille, whether it is the noveau rich’s new toy or how loud it is when worn on the wrist. But we often forget that they are one of the most recognizable and sought after independent watchmakers in the market. The brand’s avant garde philosophy and the use of innovative materials constantly pushes the boundaries. And Richard Mille’s success is no accident, but a combination of superlative marketing blended with beautiful products which leverage on innovative use of materials.

The latest RM07-02 Automatic Sapphire Collection certainly does not fall too far from the tree. The latest ladies watch has 4 different variants which includes a new lilac sapphire colour. The production of coloured sapphires requires a complex process that require incorporating metal oxides into the material’s crystalline lattice. With each added component in the raw material, the coloured crystal becomes more sensitive to heat and growth process changes, as compared to it’s colourless counterpart. Once completed, the crystal requires 1,000 man hours to mill the perfect case.

Encased within the tedious crystal case, the CRMA5 in-house skeletonised automatic movement has briges and mainplate crafted from either red or white gold and are microblasted and chamfered by hand. By far, Richard Mille does one of the most beautiful skeleton movement available in the market.

With the above being mentioned, we look forward to Richard Mille moving out of the “hype” era and hopefully be more appreciated by the hardcore watch aficionados.

Release information

NEW RM 07-02 AUTOMATIC SAPPHIRE COLLECTION: THE CRYSTALLINE ELEGANCE OF COLOURED SAPPHIRE

  • Four new interpretations, including a new lilac sapphire colour
  • Dials with geometric shapes
  • A case requiring over 1,000 hours of machining
  • A diamond-set case: a true technical feat

This new collection combines the attractions of a clean design with the mechanical complexity of ne watchmaking. As Richard Mille connoisseurs are fascinated by the brand’s signature watchmaking techniques, the new RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire timepieces remain faithful to the first iteration, whose movement could be admired from every angle through a coloured sapphire prism.

It was back in 2015 that Richard Mille boldly chose to design watches with cases made entirely of coloured sapphire. Today, the RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire collection has been enriched with four new versions – including one in lilac, a brand-new shade – and new interpretations of the gem-set dial.

Stacked from 25 images. Method=B (R=8,S=4)

At the heart of this crystalline cocoon is an intriguing and attractive dial that draws the eye with perfectly symmetrical geometric shapes and refined aesthetics. This central graphic design is a testament to the art of the master gem-setter. The stones adorning this watch catch the light to enhance every facet of the sapphire case, decorating the dial, bezel and flange. A cabochon also embellishes the crown. Here, precious stones, including dazzling diamonds, hypnotic blue sapphires and vibrant yellow sapphires, are combined with ornamental stones such as spessartite, white agate or opal, and the various shades of green tsavorite, chrysoprase and malachite.

Behind the sumptuous visual harmony of this piece lies great ingenuity. Protected by its sapphire case, the CRMA5 in-house skeletonised automatic movement, displaying the hours and minutes, is wound by a variable-geometry rotor making it possible to configure the winding of the movement to the activity of the wearer by adjusting two small weights. This compact caliber has a power reserve of approximately 50 hours. The baseplate and bridges – crafted from either red or white gold depending on the version – are microblasted and chamfered by hand. The red gold oscillating weight is set with diamonds for an even more previous result. The combination of these myriad details and the finishes, which have been pushed to their extreme, are distinctive elements that further enhance this model.

The use of sapphire at Richard Mille involves major constraints and unique expertise. The brand’s iconic tonneau-shaped case is especially difficult to craft because of its curved lines, which render it particularly ergonomic and comfortable to wear. However, working with these curves demands additional time at every stage of the creative process, from preproduction to production itself and finishing. Sapphire will not tolerate even the slightest approximation, particularly during cutting. Its chemical composition gives it an exceptional score of 9 on the Mohs scale of mineral hardness, just behind diamond, which tops the list. Creating a case of this quality requires over 1,000 hours of machining, of which 430 hours devoted to preforming the case parts and 350 hours reserved for polishing the entire case. The front and rear bezels also receive an anti-reflective coating to guarantee optimal visual properties.

Producing coloured sapphires involves a process that is even more complex than for transparent sapphire: these stones are created by carefully incorporating metal oxides into the material’s crystalline lattice. However, a coloured crystal is more sensitive to the heating and growth process than its colourless counterpart. Developing a new shade like lilac therefore involves a multitude of trials before the exact shade can be approved.

Setting gems into this particular material is a true feat of engineering, as a laser is required to perform the mitraillage, that is drilling holes for the stones. This must be accurate to the nearest micron. Prongs in hand-polished gold, made separately, are then inserted, creating the multiple settings that hold a graceful row of diamonds.

This new collection is the result of an uncompromising quest to combine refinement with technical skill. The RM 07-02 Automatic Sapphire is limited to seven timepieces for each of the four versions: gem-set pink sapphire, lilac sapphire, green sapphire and gem-set green sapphire.

Technical Specifications of The RM07-02 Automatic Lady Sapphire

CALIBRE CRMA5: skeletonised automatic movement with hours, minutes and variable–geometry rotor
Dimensions: 46.75×32.90×14.35mm

Main Features

Power Reserve: Circa 50 hours(±10%)

Baseplate and Bridges in Gemset 18K 5N Red Gold
The baseplate and the bridges of the RM 07-02 are machines from 18K red gold microblasted and beveled by hand. The baseplate is decorated and set with hundreds of diamonds, an esthetic feat obtained through the long and delicate work of the gem-setter

The skeletonised baseplate and the bridges have been subjected to separate and extensive validation test to insure optimal strength requirements.

Free Sprung Balance with Variable Inertia
This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shocks and also during movement assembly and disassembly, hence better chronometric results over time. The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.

Gemset Rotor with Variable Geometry
-Heavy external outside edge and heavy edge ring in 5N red gold
-Weight segment in heavy metal
-Ceramic ball bearing
-OneWay®automatic winding system with ceramic ball bearings
-Bidirectional winding system

This rotor with variable geometry enables winding to be adjusted to the owner’s activity level. Adjusting the two weights, which can be slid sideways into the correct position and fixed in place by spline screws, modifies the setting. Inertia of the movement is optimal when the two weights are closer to each other, and the barrel rewinds more quickly. If the weights are positioned at either end of the rotor, the inertia is considerably reduced, resulting in the barrel winding more slowly.

FAST ROTATING BARREL (5 hours per revolution instead of 7.5 hours)
This type of barrel has the following advantages:- The phenomenon of periodic internal mainspring adhesion is significantly diminished, thereby enhancing performance,- Provision of an excellent mainspring delta curve with an ideal power reserve/performance and regularity ratio.

Gear Teeth Profile
All the geartrains in the CRMA5 calibre have been optimised by a special profile developed for the teeth of the wheels to create a 20° pressure angle. This pressure angle facilitates the work of the ball bearings and equalizes any discrepancies that might arise between the axles of each wheel. These geartrains also promote excellent torque transmission and optimal efficiency.

Spline Screws in Grade 5 Titanium for the Case and Bridges
Spline screws permit better control of the torque applied during assembly. They are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly and disassembly, and age well.

Other Features
-Movement dimensions: 29.90 x 22.00 mm
-Thickness: 5.05 mm
-Number of jewels: 25
-Balance: CuBe, 4 arms, 4 setting screws, moment of inertia of 7.5 mg.cm2, 50º angle of lift
-Frequency: 28,800 vph (4 Hz)
-Balance spring: AK 3
-Shock protection: INCABLOC 908.22.211.100 (transparent)
-Jewels in escape wheel: Rubifix (transparent)

Case
The bezel, caseband and caseback of the RM07-02 are made from solid blocks of Sapphire. Sapphire is known as a particularly scratch-resistant material with a hardness of 1800 Vickers. Created from crystals of aluminum oxide(Al2O3), its transparency is a result of the purity of composition.
Machining these components constitutes the biggest challenge ever faced by Richard Mille—a challenge made all the more difficult as the sapphire machining process is exceptionally delicate.
Creating a case of this quality took over 40 days of machining, including 430 hours spent pre-forming the case components and 350 hours polishing the caseband/bezel/case back ensemble.
The case is assembled using 24 grade 5 titanium spline screws and abrasion-resistant washers in 316L stainless steel. The three-part case is water-resistant to 30 meters thanks to 2 Nitril O-ring seals.

Upper Flange
In 5N gold, hour-markers filled with approved luminous material.

Crystal
Bezel side: in sapphire (hardness of 1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (on both sides).
Thickness: 2.30mm
Caseback: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (on both sides)
Thickness: 2.30mm

Finishing

Movement
-Hand-polished beveling
-Microblasted milled sections
-Hand-polished sinks
-Drawn edges

Steel Parts
-Satin-finished upper surfaces
-Hand-Polished beveling
-Hand-Polished sinks
-Drawn edges

Profile-Turning
-Lapped and polished ends
-Burnished pivot
-Polished post faces

Wheels
-Concave chamfering with a diamond tool
-Diamond-polished angles
-Circular-finished faces
-Rhodium-plating (before cutting the teeth)

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