Blancpain’s iconic Villeret collection feels like it has been around for a very long time, but officially, it’s ‘only’ existed for just over two decades. But beyond semantics, the spirit and style of the Villeret had long been established a further two decades before. In 1983, Blancpain introduced a watch that would become emblematic: the smallest complete calendar moon phase of its time (Calibre 6395). With its double-stepped bezel and refined, understated aesthetics, this timepiece already embodied the codes that continue to define Villeret today. As the brand’s most classical line, the Villeret collection today is host to a multitude of elegant watches with various designs and complications. From something practical like the Jour Date in stainless steel that indicates the day and date, to something visually spectacular like the Tourbillon Heure Sautante Minute Rétrograde that features a flying tourbillon, retrograde minutes and an enamel dial – there’s a watch for everyone.
Blancpain Villeret Ultraplate 6651
While the more mechanically sophisticated Villerets are undoubtedly impressive, they fall short in capturing the refinement and simplicity of the Ultraplate (date or no date). This year, Blancpain has given the Villeret Ultraplate an aesthetic update, starting with the 6651. The changes are deliberate enough to usher in a new era for the model, yet subtle enough to ensure that the Villeret DNA remains unmistakable. Here, we bring you the details and our thoughts on the new Villeret Ultraplate 6651.
The Case, Dial, and Hands
As they say, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. The one aspect of the newly updated Villeret Ultraplate 6651 that remains largely untouched is the case. Measuring 40.00mm x 8.70mm, the fully polished case retains the same size as its predecessors. Its slender profile and modern case size will fit most wrists and suit the preferences of most. The signature double-stepped bezel is still there of course, as is the sapphire crystal case back. For now, the new Ultraplate 6651 is available in red gold and stainless steel (this review will focus on the precious metal version). The watch comes with an alligator leather strap in either beige, brown or honey, as well as a folding clasp for added security and luxury. One of the most significant changes made to the new Ultraplate 6651 here is the addition of an interchangeable strap system to allow for quick and easy strap change.
The rest of the changes (outside of the movement) can be found on the dial. Those familiar with the Villeret collection will notice immediately that the hands look different now – arguably the biggest change on the dial. Previously in the form of openworked leaf hands, the hour and minute hands are now solid with luminescent inserts for a more contemporary look and improved legibility under low-light conditions. The next key change is in the typography of the hour markers; the Roman numerals are now more sculpted and sans serif. The traditional ‘XII’ marker has also been replaced with the brand’s ‘JB’ logo. Last but not least, the date window has been enlarged, marginally. These changes reflect the brand’s desire to modernise the Villeret. My preference lies with the old design as I feel that – while it isn’t as clean – it has more flair. The red gold variant of the new Villeret Ultraplate 6651 comes with a matching golden brown sunburst dial, completing a monochromatic but charming overall appearance.
The Movement
Driving the new Villeret Ultraplate 6651 is the same, tried and tested, manufacture Calibre 1151. The movement is only 3.25 mm thick, with a total of 210 components, including 28 jewels. Quite impressively, the automatic movement has a power reserve of 100 hours – about four days – while operating at a stately 3 Hz. As one might have guessed from the sight of the dial, the Calibre 1151’s functions are central hours, minutes and seconds, as well as the date.
There is one noticeable difference in the movement relative to the ones found in previous iterations of the Villeret Ultraplate: the openworked oscillating weight. Previously completely solid, the oscillating weight in this new version has been pared down, allowing the movement – and especially the balance wheel – more visibility. This is an improvement in terms of cosmetics as the old oscillating weight looked rather austere. The new one shows more effort put into design with a 3D ‘JB’ logo in the center and lots of polished bevels to savour. The rest of the calibre remains familiar with waves on the top surfaces of bridges, polished screw heads, circular grained wheels and gilded engravings.
The Competitive Landscape
The time-date is perhaps the most popular function combination in all of mechanical watchmaking and is – unsurprisingly – one of the most competitive segments of the market. The Blancpain Villeret is a household name, but also a name that has, maybe, been forgotten a little of late. The hope, of course, is that the changes in the latest version of the Villeret Ultraplate will reinvigorate interest in the watch. Part of brand’s permanent collection (not a limited edition), the Ultraplate 6651 in red gold is priced at SGD32,100.
Another collection that would be considered a household name by most connoisseurs is the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control. The Date is the simplest expression of this quintessential Jaeger-LeCoultre collection. While it does not look quite as refined as the Villeret Ultraplate 6651, it shares many similarities. For one, it displays time centrally and the date via a window at 3 o’clock. For another, it is also 40mm x 8.7mm with automatic winding. The watch is priced at SGD13,200, which happens to be similar to that of the Villeret Ultraplate 6651 in stainless steel (SGD15,500). The current generation of the Master Control Date is not available in precious metal though previous generations were.
A more extreme comparison leads us to the Breguet Classique 5177 that resides near the top echelon of fine watchmaking. Like the Villeret, the Classique 5177 displays time centrally and the date at 3 o’clock but that’s about where the similarities end. Highlights of the watch include a blue enamel dial, prints executed in powdered silver paint, inward angles in its movement and a rotor heavily decorated with guilloche. The Classique 5177 is also 2mm smaller which will come as a boon for the purists among us. As a more nuanced timepiece, the Classique 5177 naturally comes at a higher price – USD34,100 to be exact.
Final Thoughts
The Villeret Ultraplate 6651 is finally ushered into the 2020s with these numerous, albeit subtle, changes. From a design standpoint, the watch retains most of its signature elements but now appears more streamlined. The new strap quick-change system is set to modernise the collection but it also means that replacement or extra straps will – largely – have to be purchased from within the brand, limiting options. While many will miss the old aesthetics, the new look should still please the bulk of the brand’s target audience. As far as makeovers go, this one is relatively tame and does not risk alienating fans of the Villeret. Expect other Villeret references to receive the updated design code in the near future.
