New & Reviewed: Earthen Watch Co., Summit Collection

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What if we democratise ceramic watches. Well, it is possible! Enter the Earthen Watch Co.’s Summit Collection.

New & Reviewed: Earthen Watch Co., Summit Collection

The Earthen’s Watch Co. Summit Collection retails for USD$899 (exclusive of taxes, and perhaps tariff).

YouTube video: Interview with Jonathan Chan, Co-Founder of Earthen Watch Co.

During drinks one evening with fellow watch enthusiasts, Stanley mused candidly that watches are becoming bloody expensive so much so that younger collectors risk being priced out. If that trend continues, the art of watchmaking may lose its next generation, as the industry struggles to entice fresh blood. Well, Earthen Watch Co. has proven Stanley very wrong.

With their latest Summit Collection, Earthen Watch Co. sets out to democratise ceramic watches. Inspired by vintage pilot’s watches yet infused with the playful energy of skiing and snowboarding, the line carries a refreshing, youthful spirit. The idea sprang from Jonathan Chan co-founder of The Horology Club and Earthen Watch Co. an avid skier himself. In his words: “We wanted to create the ultimate ski watch one that’s water-resistant, legible, and built to last.”

The Summit Collection debuts in three distinct configurations, each bundled with two straps for versatility:

– Overcast – A stealthy black dial housed in a black ceramic case, paired with a sage green sailcloth rubber strap and khaki NATO strap.  Perfect for classic military field watch lovers. 

– Whiteout – A high-contrast black dial set against a white ceramic case, accompanied by a white sailcloth rubber strap and navy NATO strap.  For maximum legibility and cool monotone look. 

– Blue Bird – A full-lume ghost white dial in a white ceramic case, matched with a baby blue sailcloth rubber strap and light grey NATO strap.  The most playful of the configurations, echoing the brand’s not-so-serious attitude. 

For this review, the Blue Bird caught our attention and one that we requested for a review. And we got this watch for a week to play with to do this review.

The Case

The ceramic case is unquestionably the star of the Summit Collection. At this price point, the level of finishing is impressive delivering on the promise of democratising ceramic. The bezel carries a satin finish, while the case sides are brushed, creating a texture reminiscent of snow and ice. This nuance is more pronounced on the black ceramic Overcast, but still subtly present on the white Blue Bird.

Sized at 38mm in diameter and 10mm thick, the case strikes a balanced profile. Why 38mm? Quite simply, it was designed to fit the wrists of both founders: Jonathan, with his 6.25–6.5 inch wrist, and Stanley (of Earthen Watch Co.), whose wrist is slightly larger. The result is a watch comfortable across a broad spectrum of wearers. And as a ski watch, the oversized crown is designed for practicality and robustness in winter conditions, it ensure that one is able to adjust the time with their gloves on.

The Dial

Legibility was the guiding principle behind the choice of a pilot’s-watch dial. Traditionally, these dials are uncluttered, with bold numerals and prominent hands to allow quick reading in challenging environments.

What makes the Blue Bird special is its full-lume “ghost white” dial, which glows blue in low-light conditions. It transforms the watch into something both practical and delightfully playful. At six o’clock, a subtle motif inspired by a skier descending a slope pays tribute to the founders’ love of winter sports.

The Strap

Each model is delivered with two straps, ensuring versatility on the slopes or in daily life. The Blue Bird ships with a baby-blue sailcloth strap backed with rubber—tough enough to take on the elements, yet comfortable on the wrist. The secondary grey NATO adds an easygoing alternative for casual wear. Together, they embody the “Go Anywhere, Do Anything” (GADA) ethos the founders were aiming for.

The Movement

Powering the Submit Collection is the tried-and-tested Miyota 9039. We’ve seen this calibre in many watches at this level, and for good reason: it’s as dependable as a Toyota Hilux rugged, reliable, and near unbreakable. Beating at 28,800 vph with a 42-hour power reserve, it offers no surprises but plenty of reassurance.

Our only gripe lies with its rotor. As a unidirectional design, it produces an audible spinning noise when in free motion. Still, the trade-off is worth it: the 9039’s durability, ease of service, and widespread availability mean that any competent watchmaker can keep it running for decades.

Competitive Landscape

At the price of USD 899, there do not appear to be any other automatic ceramic watches available. However, there are quite a number of automatic watches in this price range. All keeping in line with the theme of democratising “expensive” features.

First up, sharing the same movement and also hailing from Hong Kong, is the Watch Ho & Co. x Selten “Jui”. The pièce de résistance of this watch is its black mother-of-pearl (MOP) dial. In its own way, the Jui democratises the MOP dial, celebrating the gathering of people, watches, and stories. Launched at USD 1.1k, it remains one of the most affordable MOP-dial watches on the market.

The second watch comes from the “Godfather” of democratising high-end Swiss-made watches, Ba111od. Their Chapter 7 is among the most affordable certified chronometers available. Priced at CHF 760 (approx. USD 950), it certainly gives many established maisons a serious run for their money.

Concluding Thoughts

At Deployant, while we remain the “Independent home for news and in-depth analysis of Watchmaking and Haute Horlogerie”, we also warmly welcome microbrands. In today’s climate, they inject creativity, lower barriers of entry, and entice new enthusiasts into the fold.

Brands such as Earthen Watch Co., Ba111od and Selten exemplify this spirit. By offering thoughtfully designed, well-built timepieces at accessible prices, they ensure that the passion for horology continues to thrive not just among seasoned collectors, but among the next generation as well.

Here in the Earthen Blue Bird, it delivers at all fronts. Affordable, well made, very beautiful watches which deserve…no demand your attention. Watch out for more of such gems…we have more coming.

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