New & Reviewed: Bell & Ross BR-X5 Racing

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Just in time for the Singapore Grand Prix 2024! Bell & Ross is back with their racing watch! This time, they have broken free from any tie ups and have created the handsomest BR-X5 till date! The BR-X5 Racing. Lights out and away we go!

New & Reviewed: Bell & Ross BR-X5 Racing

The Bell & Ross BR-X5 Racing has a retail price of SGD 15,100 for the rubber strap variant and SGD 16,500 for the titanium bracelet variant. Price is inclusive of GST. Limited Edition of 500 pieces.

Hot on the heels of the BR-03 Horizon, Bell & Ross presents their latest automotive racing inspired watch. The Bell & Ross BR-X5 Racing. The BR-X5 Racing was first presented to us during Watches and Wonders 2024, the striking design got us so excited that I wanted to put in my choice of new watches but was unable as this watch is still under embargo. Until now. With the embargo lifted, we are excited to share our exclusive hands on review. I took it on a trip and will also share some breathtaking views of Western Australia and our choice supercar (Ferrari 360 Modena) to complement the watch.

The BR-X5 Racing is the first automotive racing inspired watch after their partnership with Alpine ended. It is a welcoming move aesthetically as Bell & Ross is now free to express their vision of a racing watch and not be bound by the design language of their partner.

First Impression/The Case

The watch is the followup to the BR-X5 which was released in 2022. The case construction of the X5 series is interesting that it comprises of a sandwich construction of a central core machined in the same block as the crown guard flanked by two plates serving as the front and rear bezels. These plates are held together by four screws. In the launch edition, the core and the plates are in steel. In 2023, a Full Lum version was released, where the core is now in titanium and the bezel plates are made of a composite material called LM3D which glows in the dark. For this latest release, the BR-X5 Racing, the core and bezels are in grade 2 titanium. Four titanium screws hold the structure together. And the case retains the 100m water resistance rating.

The case construction is complex, Bell & Ross tells us that it has a similar architecture as the original Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700, and recently revived in the new Ref. 5811.

The case measures 41mm square and 12.8mm thick. The crown guard is finished in black DLC and the rest of the titanium case is micro blasted for a matte surface which is smooth to the touch.

The Dial

The dial is literally a beaut! What first caught our eyes is the carbon fiber face plate. This is a plate in woven carbon fibre which is integrated into the top plate and is visible from the watch face. As an element on the watch, it screams “racing”.

The racing inspiration continues with the main part of the glass dial which is smoked to give a peek into the movement plate within. We take the parallel with the transparent engine covers of many sports cars, like the Ferrari we show here.

The markings are typically Bell & Ross. Very clean, clear and legible. The large hands point to the clearly marked elements on the dial. The hour markers are in large arabic typography and inscribed on the dial’s glass. The sloped rehaut is marked in 5 minute intervals, and the minute track is graduated in quarter of a seconds in a “checkerboard” style. The date aperture peeks out at the 3 o’clock position with the appropriate pointer as a large triangle. And as usual for Bell & Ross, the play of colours with the typography with the grapic elements are absolutely on point.

Power reserve indicator takes on a partial hexagonal shape with cues from the automotive world’s fuel gauge with “E” in red for “Empty” and an “F” in petrol blue for “Full”. An innerscale marked with 0 to 3D references the 3 day “Weekend Proof” movement. We certainly welcome the new design of the power reserve as it.

For some reason probably due to our excitement over this watch, we did not take photographs of the lume. But rest assured that as this is a Bell & Ross, the lume is strong and bright, and will not disappoint.

The Movement

The gorgeous titanium watch encases one of our favorite movement from Bell & Ross: the maufacture caliber BR-CAL.323. This is the same Kenissi sourced movement which has been in the BR-X5 since launch. A movement which I am particularly fond of. Movement finish is de rigeur for a watch at this pricing level, and accounts for all the essential engineering needs of the functions. There is no extraneous haute horlogerie decorative finishes applied, not is expected for a tool watch like the BR-X5 Racing.

As a special note, we really enjoyed winding the watch. The winding action feels smooth but with sufficient tactile feedback, which makes it particularly satisfying to wind. This haptic feel is further “fueled” by the visual of the power reserve indicator went from “E” to “F” giving us the positive reinforcement that the movement is being recharged.

Strap

The BR-X5 Racing is offered either full microblasted titanium bracelet or black rubber with microblasted titanium deployant buckle. We had the latter as our loaner, as we like the versatility of having a rubber strap while we are on holiday. A rubber strap can be used on wrists of varying sizes without the need to add or remove links, but may opt for the full titanium bracelet for a more robust use in our daily role as an urban warrior.

This is the same rubber strap which is supplied with the BR-X5 Lum, with one small, but critical exception. The buckle is now in titanium. We are happy that Bell & Ross listened as we had we moaned about the use of a steel buckle with the titanium case of the Lum.

Comparisons

The genre of racing inspired watches is huge. This popular segment has offerings from almost all major manufacturers. We select a few to serve as examples, as there is no way to compile a list which is anywhere near exhaustive. So our selected pieces are as follows:

First up on the grid will be the Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control. The similarities between the watches is certainly uncanny where it features very similar complications of both power reserve and date. In its latest guise, the Chopard Mille Miglia GTS Power Control Grigio Speciale packs a punch as a strong contender. It has a titanium case, a true manufacture movement with a power reserve of 60 hours and priced at just SGD 13k.

The second watch that is on the grid will be the Reservoir Longbridge British Racing. Though the similarities between the BR-X5 and the Reservoir is not as obvious visually, the Reservoir watch is one that stands out for it’s retro motorsports inspired design. The retrograde minutes reminds one of a tachymeter while the power reserve indicator is modelled after the fuel gauge in a classic car. Put both the BR-X5 and the Reservoir Longbridge British Racing side by side, and the similarities become apparent. One is a modern sports car, while the other is a vintage English sports car, replete with the British Racing green livery.

The third watch that is on the grid for comparison is the Tudor Black Bay Ceramic “Blue”. It is a watch to celebrate the brand’s partnership with Visa Cash App RB Formula One team. The Black Bay Ceramic “Blue” is a contender against the BR-X5 Racing as they both feature Kenissi manufacture movement.

Conclusion

Overall, the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Racing is a very satisfying watch to use on a daily basis. We absolutely loved every minute the loaner was with us! We love the look. We love the feel. And we love the whole vibe! The details which hints on its racing aspirations. Details like the redesigned power reserve indicator. The carbon weave. The sleek, light titanium case. When you package everything up, this is one handsome looking watch. Makes you want to always put it on your wrist.

During my Western Australian trip, despite bringing a few watches, the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Racing was the one on my wrist 90% of the time. The 41mm rounded square case wears very well on large or small wrists.

And even works on demure ladies’ wrists.

So, we implore you to hurry down to your nearest Bell & Ross store and grab one of the 500 limited edition before it runs out. This is our top choice for Bell & Ross for 2024.

Photo Notes

Guest Photography in Western Australia and Ferrari 360 Mondena is courtesy of twangphoto (instagram)

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