The focus for Panerai in this year’s Watches & Wonders lies in the Luminor collection. Notably, the emblematic Luminor collection was thrusted into the limelight 70 years ago, with the introduction of the tritium-based luminous substance and its recognisable case design. The rest is history, as they say.
For this year’s novelties, Panerai had introduced a few models with different takes on materials and design. As per the previous articles, we will be editing the press releases for brevity and include our commentary in italics.
Panerai Luminor Marina ’70 Years Of Luminor’ Collection
The main highlight amongst the Panerai novelties is the Marina ’70 Years of Luminor’ collection. This series of watches plays around the theme of luminosity, where luminescence materials are applied to the chapter ring, crown guard, and the strap of the watch.
Notably, the 44m timepiece is available in three different case options: Luminor Marina – 44 mm (PAM01117), Luminor Marina Carbotech™ – 44 mm (PAM1118) and Luminor Marina Fibratech™ – 44mm (PAM01119). The base Marina, notably, features a case that is manufactured using the Direct Metal Laser Sintering (DMLS) technology, which allows it to be light (100 grams, inclusive of strap) and strong. We will also be sharing more about the new Fibratech material in the subsequent segment.
Another interesting point to note is the watch’s extended warranty. Panerai had extended the guarantee of these watches to 70 years, as a testament to the quality of their timepieces. This means that Panerai will maintain the good working order of the client’s watch as necessary under the terms and conditions of the international warranty.
Commentary: This is an interesting take on the Luminor collection, with a bold and striking take on luminosity. It will be, without a doubt, an eye-catching piece in the dark. In addition, the 70 years warranty is a bold and aggressive move – it is a strong testament to the brand’s commitment to produce high quality watches that will last for generations to come. We do think that this is a fitting tribute to celebrate an important milestone of the collection. It is also certainly one of our favourite novelties from Panerai this year.
Luminor Marina Fibratech
This year, Panerai had also introduced a new material named the Fibratech. This is seen in some of the novelties this year, including the new Luminor Marina Fibratech (PAM01663).
Fibratech is a composite that is made with natural and eco-sustainable row fibres, with remarkable physical and mechanical properties. It is 60% lighter than steel, resilient, and highly resistant to corrosion – hallmarks of a solid tool watch. The material, which was tested in the aerospace industry, was the culmination of further development and refinement in the Panerai Laboratorio di Idee.
This particular 44mm watch will feature the new Fibratech case, paired with a Carbotech bezel for contrast. It will be powered by Panerai’s Calibre P.9010 – an automatic movement with a power reserve of around 72 hours, with an additional date function at the 3 o’clock position.
Commentary: This new Fibratech case is certainly interesting, and we will be highly interested to experience it in person to ascertain the new material. Aesthetic-wise, we think that you cannot go wrong with the classic Luminor case, and the new matt grey material certainly adds a nice touch to the entire watch.
Luminor Marina Goldtech
The new Luminor Marina Goldtech (PAM01112) focuses on reinventing the gold alloy.
The new material – which is derivation of red gold – is a result of an extraordinary formula perfected by the Panerai Laboratorio di Idee and characterized by a high percentage of copper (24%) combined with platinum (0.4%). Both materials are key to achieving an intense, unique tone and an extreme degree of mechanical and oxidation resistance.
The new 44m Luminor Marina Goldtech features both gloss and satin finishing on its case, and it is paired with a deep blue sunburst sandwich dial. The watch is similarly powered by the in-house self-winding Calibre P.9010.
Luminor Luna Rossa GMT
The Luna Rossa GMT is a timepiece produced in partnership with the defending champion of the America’s Cup, the Luna Rossa Team.
Keeping in line with the Luna Rossa Team, 44mm timepiece is cased in titanium – similar to the material used on the competing crafts. The case is then strengthened with an additional layer of special carbon-based DLC coating the metal has an increased degree of wear resistance. Finally, the watch also features a dial that has a thin layer of technical fabric from the sailing equipment of the AC75 monohull of Luna Rossa.
Not dissimilar to then other models, the watch is also fitted with the in-house Calibre P.9010. The difference is that this watch is fitted with an additional GMT module, to improve the functionality of this watch, which will certainly come in handy for collectors who are constantly travelling around across different time zones.
Commentary: This is a handsome timepiece, and we like the contrasting details on the watch (red tipped hands and the textured dial). The GMT function is a welcoming feature as well.
Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT 50mm Mike Horn Edition
Finally, we have the new Submersible EcoPangaea Tourbillon GMT Mike Horn Edition – a 5-piece limited edition watch.
Featuring the new EcoPangaea material, the high-tech steel case is produced from the recycled metal of the 35-meter drive shaft of the Pangea, Mike Horn’s sailing ship. The material had to be purified and perfected, before it is being shaped into a watch case.
The new Submersible is distinguished by a unidirectional rotating bezel with polished indexes on a sandblasted base, “Arctic” blue functional details and an engraved porthole case back. A generously proportioned 50 mm case features an amplified size to house a soft iron ring that protects the movement from the negative influence of magnetic fields too.
Powering the watch is the advanced hand-wound Caliber P.2006/T. The skeletonized titanium movement is rooted in advanced geometries with a series of three barrels responsible for a 6-day power reserve and a 30-second tourbillon that rotates along a perpendicular axis. Notably, this is also the first watch in the collection to feature a tourbillon.
Commentary: This is a bold statement from Panerai. We like the use of sustainable materials in its construction, as well as its cutting-edge skeletonised movement. This is unlike most of the other Panerai watches, and we really appreciate the story behind it. The inclusion of a Tourbillon complication in a Submersible is unprecedented too, which provides yet another talking point for this limited edition timepiece.
Of course, this is not accessible for most of the collectors. But we do hope that Panerai can consider bringing the EcoPangaea technology forward, and incorporate recycled materials into the production of their watches. This is not something that many watch manufacturers have considered, and Panerai can certainly have an edge over its competitors with the use of such sustainable materials. It will be game-changing, in our opinion.