Released at Watches & Wonders Geneva 25, here is our review of the new Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 during our hands-on session in Singapore recently.
We did not photograph the watch ourselves, even though we had some time to handle the watch at the recent show in Singapore. Here are our impressions.
Review: Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575
The Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech PAM01575 will retail at CHF 67,200/ SGD 102,800.
The case
The case is the standard Panerai Luminor case, and constructed in platinum, with a material which Panerai calls Patinumtech. The case is 44mm in diameter, and Panerai claims that it has a higher scratch resistance than standard platinum up to 40% harder.
The platinum case, especially one this massive does have considerable heft. And one which can be felt when worn on the wrist. But it is not perceived as heavy. Merely a watch which asserts its presence, and is well balanced. The platinum case provides a beautiful backdrop to the blue sapphire crystal on the dial.
The dial and display
We rather like the dial. It is in sapphire glass, with a blue tint, which gives this rather impressive looking “peek-a-boo” effect.
The display is clear and uncluttered, with the markings very legible. The dial side only shows the day and date together with an additional arrow hand showing the second timezone and an 24 hour hand with AM/PM indicator. The 24 hour hand shares the subdial with the small seconds hand. The leap year indicator and power reserve indicator together with the 4 digit date is only displayed on the case back on the movement side.
It wouldn’t be a Panerai Luminor without the lume. And the PAM01575 does not disappoint. The lume is clean, bright and clearly shows both the home time as well as the second timezone, indicated by luminous paint which glows in two colours – SuperLumiNova X2 for the hour, minute and small seconds providing a vivid green and a blue for the arrow tips of the second timezone displays.
The movement
The movement is the new P.4100 movement, developed such that it shows a clean display on the dial side, making the watch look like it is a two timezone dive watch with day and date. But the PAM01571 is not a dive watch. It does not meet the ISO specifications as it does not have a uni-directional bezel, and has a water resistance rating of only 50m. However, this should not detract from the brilliance of this new movement.
Not only is it shows off its pedigree on the dial side display, all the perpetual calendar information is shown on the case back. Essential elements as the month, leap year and 4 digit date is shown, as well as the power reserve indicator reading up to 3 days of autonomy on a full wind. All this on a movement with a micro-rotor and rather nicely finished with linear brushed surfaces on the huge rear bridge holding the entire wheel train with the exception of the balance wheel which has its own bridge. The aesthetic of the plate and bridge is one which exudes mechanical strength and power, and gives an impression of stability. All ideas, congruent with the Panerai brand name.
The competitive landscape
Indeed, the landscape of automatic winding watches with perpetual calendars is wide. And even with the narrowing of these complicated watches to those with a micro rotor, the field is still considerably large. And Panerai does not quite help by releasing the PAM01575 with only a 50m water resistance, even thought the Luminor case with the patented crown guard and lock system was originally developed for diving. If the case had a water resistance rating of 200m or more, typical for a diver watch, then the landscape would be considerably narrower. At 50m, it would still have to compete with dress watches.
However, the field narrows when we are only looking at only perpetual calendars with a sapphire glass dials. And the first watch that comes to mind would be the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen series. A quick search would, however, reveal that the only perpetual calendar is much more complicated, and includes a chronograph in the form of the Datograph Perpetual Calendar Lumen in Honey Gold, a special edition released in 2024 to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Datograph which carries the shocking list price of EUR 620k for the 50 piece limited edition. This Panerai PAM01575 in at less than 15% of that price, and is comes in a platinum case. And the Panerai has a very useful second timezone to boot, though lacks the chronograph offered by Lange.
Concluding thoughts
This is an impressive watch by Panerai. Now only is it technically interesting – a perpetual calendar in a Luminor case, which sort of hints of a perpetual calendar dive watch, but falls short as the case is only rated to 50m. Yes, we have ranted about this all over this article. but we cannot really emphasise our disappointment for a Panerai. In our view, any Panerai, yes we are looking at you Due, should live up to its dive heritage and not have such a low water resistance rating. Having said this, this rating is actually of little consequence in practice. The 50m rating is still useful for day to day activities, including washing hands or being caught in the rain. Or even a surface swim, though we would caution against that, and against wearing it in the shower.
But to reiterate, overall, a very impressing showing by Panerai. Beautiful watch, useful complication and the platinum case.
