Highlights from Vacheron Constantin’s WWG25 novelties celebrating 270 years with 8 limited editions in Traditionnelle and Patrimony Collections.
Guest commentary by collector Terence Chan in italics with release material.
Editor’s Note: Trying out a new format with guest commentary to cover releases. Here Terence Chan gives his impression of the novelties in the release. We note that we signed an NDA with VC for the pre-release, and shared this material with Terence as a staff member, also bound by the same NDA. The embargo just lifted. We also had access to photograph some of these watches in January. These are shown with the Deployant watermark.
New: highlights from the Vacheron Constantin WWG25 collection
270 Years of Excellence: Traditionnelle and Patrimony Celebrate Vacheron Constantin’s Horological Heritage
Vacheron Constantin is celebrating its 270th anniversary by launching eight limited editions within its Patrimony and Traditionnelle collections. In keeping with the Maison’s heritage, each one features a new aesthetic dial signature and original finishes on the calibre.
As a long-time admirer of Vacheron Constantin—and a collector who has built a deep connection with the Maison—I’ve always felt that it’s within the Traditionnelle and Patrimony collections that VC truly flexes its horological savoir-faire. These are the canvases where the brand doesn’t just showcase refinement, but technical and aesthetic restraint executed to near-perfection. It only makes sense that they would anchor this 270th celebration.
A Proud 270-Year History in the Creation of Classic Designs
Vacheron Constantin, the world’s oldest watch Maison in continuous operation, has stood the test of time through its constant quest for excellence. This quest is reflected in its sophisticated yet understated designs, coupled with technical innovation. These characteristics are epitomised by two classic lines: the Traditionnelle and Patrimony collections.
The Traditionnelle collection pays homage to the rigorous traditions of Geneva’s 18th-century Haute Horlogerie, combining high technical standards with distinctive horological aesthetics. Its signatures include stepped lugs, a fluted caseback and a slender bezel. Reflecting watchmaking tradition, the dial has a railway-type minutes track, faceted Dauphine-style hands and applied gold baton-type hour-markers.
It’s always these details that set VC apart—the stepped lugs, the slender bezels, the classical symmetry. They could have easily done a dial color swap and called it a day, but instead, they chose to elevate the experience through thoughtful design and meaningful references to their history.
The Patrimony collection, inspired by the ultra-thin, round timepieces crafted by Vacheron Constantin in the 1950s, has embraced minimalism and subtlety for more than two decades. Its understated design codes are expressed through a round case with a slim bezel, a subtly domed dial with slender, curved applied hour-markers, curved baton-type hands and a ‘pearl’ minutes track.
A Distinctive Aesthetic Signature for a Historic Anniversary
The limited editions are united by distinctive stylistic details created especially for the 270th anniversary. The dials feature a subtle geometric motif inspired by the Maltese Cross, Vacheron Constantin’s emblem since 1880. Representing the Maison’s unwavering commitment to precision, the symbol evokes an ancient calibre component connected to the barrel that ensured consistent power flow to the spring—and thus, optimal performance.
This motif is what really elevates the dial experience for me. Especially on the 33mm Traditionnelle with the mother-of-pearl dial—it might not be guilloché, but the texture gives a sense of depth and shimmer that dances beautifully with light. I’m not one for diamonds, usually, but here they fade into the background, letting the decor and finishing shine. That dial is something else—subtle, intricate, refined.
Manufacture Calibres and the Beauty of ‘Côte Unique’ Finishing
The sapphire casebacks reveal the ‘côte unique’ finish on the bridges of each calibre made for this anniversary. This refined finishing, rediscovered by the Maison in 2021, demands a deft blend of controlled machining and artisanal finesse.
Here’s the thing about the ‘côte unique’—at first glance, it’s understated, maybe even too quiet. But once you know what you’re looking at, the visual rhythm of those flowing lines really clicks. It’s not shouting for attention, but it rewards the patient eye. I like that. It’s confident craft, not loud luxury.
Traditionnelle Manual-Winding 38mm: Classic Elegance in Platinum and Pink Gold
The Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is offered in limited editions of 370 pieces in 950 platinum and 370 pieces in 18K 5N pink gold, featuring dials with the geometric motif created for the 270th anniversary. The 38mm case is fitted with the manufacture Calibre 4400 AS/270, which, like all those marking this anniversary, is enhanced by the ‘côte unique’ finish and engraved with the anniversary emblem. This calibre offers a generous 65-hour power reserve and drives the hours and minutes, as well as small seconds at 6 o’clock.
This is the kind of watch that sits right in my sweet spot. No date, no excess, just pure timekeeping with thoughtful detail. The 38mm case wears elegantly—formal enough for a suit, but not too delicate for everyday use. Of all the anniversary models, this one speaks the most to the purist in me. And whether in platinum or pink gold, the proportions are absolutely spot-on. If I had to choose a piece to define the collection, this would be it.
A Closer Look at the Traditionnelle Duo: Moonphase and 33mm Manual-Winding
The 33 mm diamond-set pink gold case of the Traditionnelle Manual-Winding is equipped with the manufacture Calibre 1440/270. Designed and crafted by Vacheron Constantin, the calibre offers a 42-hour power reserve and, at only 2.6 mm thick, guarantees slimness and elegance for this 270-piece limited edition. The movement features the ‘côte unique’ finish and anniversary emblem, and the mother-of-pearl dial is enhanced by the Maltese cross-inspired motif created for the 270th anniversary, its subtle pink tone complemented by a pink alligator strap.
Presented in a diamond-set pink gold case measuring 36 mm in diameter, the 270-piece limited edition Traditionnelle Moon Phase is driven by the manufacture Calibre 1410 AS/270. This high-precision moon phase (also known as the ‘astronomical moon’) tracks the exact lunar cycle, accumulating only one day of discrepancy in 122 years. The calibre bears the 270th anniversary emblem and features the ‘côte unique’ finish. On the mother-of-pearl dial, which is enhanced by the 270th anniversary motif, the moon-phase complication is complemented by small seconds at 6 o’clock and a 38-hour power-reserve display.
These two Traditionnelle references are among the most visually refined of the anniversary collection. Initially, I was drawn to the 33mm model—its compact size and radiant mother-of-pearl dial made it seem like a perfect choice for everyday elegance. But the more I looked at the Moon Phase, the more it won me over.
At first glance, the dial appears quite busy—you have the moon phase, small seconds, power reserve, and the geometric anniversary motif all sharing space. Yet Vacheron has masterfully balanced each element. The positioning of the small seconds at 6 o’clock grounds the layout, while the power reserve and moonphase arc gracefully toward the top. What could have been overwhelming instead becomes harmonious. It’s a complete composition—and the more time you spend with it, the more it reveals.
Patrimony Self-Winding
The Patrimony Self-Winding watch is issued in two 370-piece limited editions in pink gold or white gold. It is driven by the manufacture Calibre 2450 Q6/270, endowed with a 40-hour power reserve. Set in a 40mm case, the silver-toned dial is distinguished by the 270th anniversary motif and displays the hours, minutes and central seconds, complemented by the date in an aperture at six o’clock. A stop-second system ensures perfect time-setting for optimum precision. The sapphire caseback reveals bridges with the ‘côte unique’ finish, the anniversary emblem and a 22K gold openworked oscillating weight incorporating a Maltese cross.
Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date
The Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date has long been a fan-favorite, and for good reason. Its classical proportions and vintage aura make it a staple for old-world charm lovers. But this 270th anniversary version subtly amplifies that charm with its dial texture and layout.
The retrograde has always been on my radar—the sweeping date arc, the warm, glowing dial in regular editions. But this new version? It kicks things up several notches. The date numerals against the textured motif simply pop. It’s not immediately eye-catching, but as you linger, the craft begins to speak. That’s the kind of watch I gravitate to.
If I had one wish though? A smaller case size. At 42.5mm, it wears a bit large for my wrist—feels almost like I’m wearing a dinner plate. Then again, I understand that shrinking this piece might rob it of its elegant sweep and dramatic wrist presence. Trade-offs, always.
Pink Gold vs. White Gold: Two Faces of the Patrimony Retrograde
The 270th anniversary Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date is offered in two distinct but equally elegant variants: 18K 5N pink gold and white gold. Both feature the distinctive Maltese cross-inspired dial motif and vibrant green alligator strap, but their overall presence couldn’t be more different.
Normally, I’d go straight for the white gold—understated, quietly luxurious, and a bit more aligned with my usual style. But in this case, the pink gold really surprised me. It adds a warmth and a glow that makes the dial details pop, especially those deep blue numerals and the moonphase aperture. The interplay of textures, metal tone, and strap color just clicks. The white gold is refined, but the pink gold sings.
A Broader Strategy at Play?
It’s also worth noting that this isn’t VC’s only tribute to the 270th. Earlier this year, they reissued the 222 in stainless steel—a move that delighted fans of the sport-luxury aesthetic under the Historiques line. That drop, paired with this more traditional anniversary release, tells a larger story: Vacheron is celebrating its entire identity, both the past and its contemporary rebirth.
A Celebration of Craft, Not Just Complication
While the press materials don’t specify whether the anniversary dials are true hand-turned guilloché, I wouldn’t be surprised if they are. Vacheron Constantin is, after all, one of the few maisons still producing genuine guilloché dials in-house, rather than resorting to industrial stamping. And even if they’re not, the level of texture and interplay with light suggests a high degree of dial artistry—something that continues to set VC apart.
And really, it’s only fitting. As the world’s oldest watch maison in continuous operation, Vacheron’s celebration doesn’t need to scream innovation or novelty. Instead, it leans confidently into the values that have defined it since 1755: traditional craft, restrained elegance, and mechanical purity. That’s not to say the brand isn’t innovating—far from it—but in times like these, sometimes the boldest move is to go old school, and do it flawlessly.
Why the Traditionnelle and Patrimony Lines? A Collector’s View
As someone who owns the Historiques American 1921—another piece rooted in VC’s glorious past—I find it absolutely fitting that the 270th anniversary focuses on the Patrimony and Traditionnelle collections. These are, in a sense, the brand’s “keepers of the flame,” the collections that most purely express its values of timeless design and quiet excellence.
They don’t need to shout. The stepped lugs, the fluted casebacks, the ultra-fine finishing—all of it quietly reinforces why Vacheron is not just part of the “Holy Trinity” of watchmaking, but arguably its most historically consistent voice.
That said, if I were to offer a collector’s wish list, it would include a few tweaks—particularly for the Patrimony Self-Winding. I’m not a date complication person, and I find the dial would breathe even more beautifully without it. The current 40mm size, while elegant, feels slightly large for such a minimalist design. By contrast, the Traditionnelle in 38mm hits the sweet spot for me: balanced, wearable, and perfectly proportioned for a classic timepiece. A pared-down Patrimony in a 37–38mm case without a date? That might be the ultimate dress watch.
A Generous Edition, a Wider Celebration
Each of the anniversary references is individually numbered and released in limited series—270 or 370 pieces depending on the model.
Now, from a collector’s standpoint, this is a noticeable shift. Traditionally, Vacheron’s LEs are much tighter—often 100 to 150 pieces. While this broader release could raise eyebrows about exclusivity, I think it reflects something else: accessibility. After all, it’s the 270th anniversary. If ever there were a moment to allow more people to own a slice of this legacy, this is it. And with the level of detail and craftsmanship poured into these pieces, it never feels mass-produced.
Conclusion
In the world of fine watchmaking, few names resonate with as much quiet authority as Vacheron Constantin. With this 270th anniversary collection, the Maison hasn’t just marked time—it has honored it. From the elegant geometry of the dials to the rediscovered finesse of the ‘côte unique’, this release is a love letter to tradition, restraint, and enduring craftsmanship. For collectors, enthusiasts, or anyone who simply understands the beauty of heritage executed flawlessly, this anniversary collection is not just commemorative. It’s quintessential Vacheron.
