GoS, a Sweedish watchmaker specialising in Damascus steel collaborates with fashion designer Martin Key to create this new watch.
Press Release information with commentary in italics.
New: GoS design by Martin Key
The retail price for the GoS design by Martin Key has a recommended retail of USD 18,000 before taxes. The first 2024 edition is limited to 4 pieces, with 8 additional being offered annually after with new updates.
Commentary
We have liked Patrik Sjögren’s designs with GoS Watches for the out of their non-mainstream qualities. Damascus steel is rarely used for watches, and one which is crafted by a master like Patrik who hand makes the parts by hand, including the crown, dials, dial components is even more rare. And the merger of two very different trades, that of blacksmithing and watchmaking makes for an interesting approach into the artisanal independent watchmaking scene.
We were impressed with the Sarek Akka, the Skadi, and the Norrsken. And for this new collaboration, though the base watch is the Sarek, but the movement is now the G101 from La Joux Perret, and the one in the launch edition we earlier described (see link on Sarek), uses a Soprod.
The aesthetics change once again, as we can see the fashion influence of Martin Key. The use of the octagon, being the most prominent. This design feature is presented as the index ring. This ring is made in 18k gold and shaped into the octagon to fit into the round case. Hour markers are indicated with diamonds, 4 of which are purple diamonds for 12/3/6/9 and remainder 8 are black diamonds. The case is also now smaller at 41.5mm instead of 43mm.
But the standout feature is the dial, Hand made by blacksmith Conny Persson in Sweden, and darkened by Patrik using a special technique, the organic looking pattern is very striking. Especially then the dark, but multicoloured dial is set off by the gold index ring which in turn is within the black round case.
Release details
In early 2024, GoS watchmaker Patrik Sjögren and Swedish fashion designer Martin Key met and realized that their shared passion for craftsmanship and attention to detail could lead to something extraordinary. This watch is the result of their collaboration, combining Martin Key’s design elements and color choices with the unique Damascus steel dials and design features of GoS. As with all GoS watches, it is machined, finished, and assembled by Patrik Sjögren in the GoS Atelier in Linköping, Sweden.
A significant hallmark of Martin Key’s work, the octagon, is featured prominently: “My hallmark, the octagon, has been with me since day one, making a powerful statement that entails a powerful commitment.” Martin Key incorporated this by designing a solid yet elegant index ring in 18k gold with a deep chamfered octagon. Large purple and black diamonds serve as hour markers, reflecting the color palette of Martin Key’s products: gold, purple, and black.
GoS, recognized as the original Damascus steel premium watch brand, introduced the first watches with pattern-welded steel details in 2008. The dials are now hand-forged by bladesmith artisan Conny Persson in his well-equipped smithy in Los, Hälsingland, Sweden. Conny has refined the GoS Damascus pattern, known as Wildflower, to be more symmetrical, matching the eight sides of the octagon index ring. Patrik Sjögren developed a new finishing technique to darken the dial while still showcasing its intricate pattern. Each dial is unique, but all watches share the same expression. Patrik also applied a new plating technique to the hands, making the high-gloss polished GoS arrowhead hands as dark as possible. This results in extreme contrast between reflections and shadows, enhancing legibility on the dark dial, in a way painted watch hands can’t achieve. We call this “Phantom Black,” a first in the watch industry.
“This is a hallmark that symbolizes the paths we take in life, which can be as smooth and effortless as a well-functioning zipper but also met with obstacles and unexpected turns. Much like a zipper that may get stuck and need replacing, it mirrors life’s challenges and adventures, and the resilience required to move past them.”
Martin Key on the case back engraving which shows a zipper.
The technical specifications of the watch are based on the second edition of the GoS Sarek collection, which Patrik worked on for two years. The updated Sarek is slightly smaller in diameter at 41.5mm, and despite the thicker new movement, its thickness remains nearly the same. Extensive refinement of existing design elements is evident, such as in the shortened and reshaped lugs to match the GoS crown.
La Joux Perret introduced a new automatic movement in 2021, which powers the second edition of Sarek. This movement features a 68-hour power reserve and 24 bearing jewels. The G101 movements are manufactured to GoS specifications, including an anthracite finish, and are equipped with a skeletonized and beveled rotor. Patrik applies a nano-ceramic coating to the rotor, adding another Martin Key’s color element, further embellished with a gold-finished GoS triskele emblem.
The first 2024 edition is limited to only four pieces, with eight pieces annually offered thereafter, incorporating new updates as they are developed. These watches will be available exclusively from Martin Key’s boutique in Stockholm or the GoS Watches atelier in Linköping.
Details and background information
Patrik chose to use a method from the jewelry industry – nano-ceramic liquids – to create colors without losing any metallic lustre. The nano-ceramic application is similar to plating but is much more sensitive down to seconds of activation and used voltage and temperature. Each part is individually coated and quality controlled before a drying procedure followed by baking in an oven to set the ceramic layer.
Patrik has extensive experience working ‘at the bench’, making a myriad of parts by hand, including crowns, dials, dial components, the brand’s distinctive hands, as well as a variety of movement parts. The Swedish watchmaker painstakingly finishes parts to a blemish-free, refined conclusion. In 2019, Sjögren gave masterclasses during Dubai Watch Week and he was invited to become a member of the GPHG Academy – the watch industry equivalent to the Oscars Academy.
Being uncompromising takes guts and that is a distinctive nature of the work by Martin Key. The choice of material and design twists makes the designs unique. With passion and determination, Martin Key intermesh craftsmanship, attention to details and storytelling into clothing as no other fashion brand, showing a wide spectrum of creativity and walk of his own.
GoS by Martin Key Specifications 2024 tranche
Case: 41.5 mm x 11 mm lug-to-lug 49.5 mm (5ATM)
Lug width: 21 mm
Glass: Domed sapphire glass with double sided AR coating, extra hard on outside.
Movement: La-Joux Perret G101 made to GoS specification with anthrazite finish. The solid Tungsten rotor is skeletonized and features a GoS triskele emblem in gold. Purple nano-ceramic color applied in the GoS atelier.
Dial: Hand-forged Damascus steel by master Conny Persson in GoS wildflower pattern with eight beads. The dial is finished in multiple steps by Patrik Sjögren in the GoS atelier with the final steps to achieve maximum darkness while keeping the legibility of the pattern.
Bezel: Satin finish on top with high-gloss polished edges.
Index ring/rehaut: The index ring is made from solid 18k gold – shaped and finished in the GoS atelier. The 12 diamonds (4 purple and 8 black) are set by a local goldsmith in Linköping.
Hands: GoS spear shape in high gloss polished black – Phantom Black.
Crown: GoS design in high-gloss polished finish with bead blasted grooves and a GoS triskele in the crown recess. The 7.5 mm crown features an integrated crown guard and has double gaskets.
Case finishing: Stainless steel, worked and finished with inspiration from Viking bracelets. The side of the case surface receives a vertical fine satinization for increased contrasts. The back and sides of the lugs are polished except for the top of the lugs that have a straight satinization. The deep black coating is industry-strength PVD applied by local experts at Ionbond, Linköping.
Strap: Handcrafted and tapered 21-20 mm strap in premium Salmon leather with 24 ct gold, fitted with premium folding buckle with button lock and octagon engraving.
Every watch engraved with “0X/04” to indicate that every watch is a unique piece and serial number for each year.
Production is limited to four watches for 2024 edition and eight watches for future editions.
Five-year guarantee.
Delivered in an octagon box made of hardwood that has been treated to resemble black oak and features leather details from Martin Key.
