Girard-Perregaux celebrates the Year of the Horse with an interesting release which they christened as the La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition.
Release details (some) with commentary in italics.
New: Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition
The Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition Ref. 99274-52-3423-5CC retails for CHF 428,000. Limited Edition of 18 pieces each, in 7 colours.
Commentary
This is an interesting release. Firstly, there was no usual pdf or doc text document. The Release details section below is from the email text that announced the release. But there was a link to many gorgeous, and I mean really gorgeous, photographs of the novelty. It is also a surprise that a watch of this high complication and high artisanal value-add which is retailing at this high price is proposed in so many variations. Ending up with a large a limited edition which totals 126 pieces in various colours.
The pink gold version of La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition will be offered in seven different colour-ways, each produced on request for a maximum of 18 pieces per colour. Our media pictures show the red version. Interestingly, they never tell why it is called “A Secret”. We can only guess that it is the hunter case back? But it does not hide the fact that this is a tourbillon with the three golden bridges which is fully shown on the dial side.
This novelty is yet another re-imagination of the La Esmeralda Tourbillon wrist watch, which we first saw in 2016, which itself is a re-incarnation of the original La Esmeralda Pocket Watch. We reviewed both in detail in the links attached. The Girard Perregaux Three Bridges design and concept is closely tied to the history of the brand. The 2016 Tourbillon was fit in a circular shaped pink gold case and measures 44 mm in diameter and 14.5 mm in thickness. In this new edition, GP has added a hunter style back case, which increased the thickness to 15.1mm, and somewhat shrinks the case diameter by 1mm.
On the dial side, the three golden bridges are as resplendent as ever, but it now sits on a dial plate which is bright red in grand feu enamel over guilloché. Two hand-engraved gold horses perched on two of the bridges. The upper barrel bridge features a horse in full gallop replacing the right facing arrow, while the lower bridge carries another engraved galloping horse replacing the left facing anchor. I do find the beauty of the three bridge tourbillon to be enlivened by these beautifully articulated horses and quite apt for the Chinese New Year of the Horse.
The watch is retained in the pink gold case, but now features engravings on the bezel, the lugs as well as the hinged hunter case back. The case side guilloché engravings are covered in a matching red grand feu enamel coat. The case back engravings depict two galloping horses in a sunray background. This hunter back is also rendered red in a brilliant red grand feu enamel, common to the case side and the dial base
Open the hinged back, and one is presented with the magnificent GP09600, a variant of the one we saw in the 2016 La Esmeralda. The center bar is retained as a gold bar with two pointed ends and is now engraved “SECRET”. Movement finishing is superb. It was in the 2016 release, and remains very much so in this release.
The pricing is now CHF 428k, a huge jump over the CHF 180k asking price about 10 years ago. But there are new cosmetic embellishments with the grand feu enamel, the hunter case back and the magnificent horse sculptures which may or may not make up for the pricing increase. And the passage of time and the inflation which accompanies. However, this new price tag is considerable.
We do find it interesting that GP has returned to its roots of high complication, and applaud the management for this decision. Especially, after meandering for several years of milking the Three Golden Bridges Tourbillon watches by releasing watered down versions just simply termed Bridges. These may or may not even feature tourbillons. And the recent obsession with their Laureato line, which we absolutely love, but at the expense of nearly ending up like Audemars Piguet with their Royal Oak. Luckily, we now see signs of return to high complications. And hope to see more.
Release details
On the occasion of the Chinese New Year, celebrating the Year of the Horse, Girard-Perregaux highlights one of the most emblematic timepieces in its collections: La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition.
This exceptional timepiece, showcasing the Maison’s technical and aesthetic savoir-faire, also pays tribute to a noble animal — the horse, an emblem closely associated with La Esmeralda. A symbol of inner power and controlled momentum, the horse mirrors Girard-Perregaux’s measured approach to progress and precision.
La Esmeralda Tourbillon ‘A Secret’ Eternity Edition is housed in a 43 mm pink gold case. It features Three Gold Bridges in a matching hue and is endowed with a red colour Grand Feu dial. The case, lugs, bezel and buckle are intricately engraved and pay homage to the historic pocket watch of 1889.
The dial is enlivened with a combination of sunray and circular guilloché, expertly imparted by hand using a traditional rose engine lathe. At the heart of the watch sits the Signature Tourbillon with Three Gold Bridges, the Manufacture calibre GP09600. Equipped with a discreet white gold micro-rotor, located beneath the barrel, the movement offers the convenience of automatic winding and plays host to golden engravings, referencing the patent filed for the Tourbillon with Three Bridges movement in 1884.
Enriched with a cornucopia of refined finishes, the Manufacture calibre GP09600 perpetuates the Maison’s reputation for crafting the finest expressions of watchmaking. Untamed passion in a bold, auspicious hue. La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition embodies the fiery spirit of the Year of the Horse.
Girard-Perregaux La Esmeralda Tourbillon “A Secret” Eternity Edition Specifications
Reference: 99274-52-3423-5CC
Case: 43mm diameter x 15.1mm height * 18k pink gold, hand-engraved, enamelled case middle * hinged hand-guilloché and enamelled caseback with three horses * box-shaped sapphire crystal with AR coating over dial, sapphire crystal under hinged caseback * 30m water-resistant
Dial: hand-guilloché with honey-coloured Grand Feu enamel – three pink gold bridges with two engraved horses * pink gold Dauphine hour and minute hands, blued seconds hand on tourbillon
Movement: calibre GP09600-2083, in-house automatic * 323 components, 31 jewels * 21,600vph/3Hz – 50h power reserve * tourbillon, hours, minutes, small seconds
Strap: hand-stitched light red calfskin strap with alligator lining and pink gold engraved triple-folding buckle * additional black alligator strap
