De Bethune unveiled the new DB25 Monopusher Chronograph a couple of weeks ago on the same week as Watches & Wonders. As we were covering WWG25, we are now picking up the back log and discuss this novelty.
Press Release information with commentary in italics.
New: De Bethune DB25 Monopusher Chronograph
The De Bethune DB25 Monopusher Chronograph retails at CHF 80,000 before taxes.
Commentary
A very classical monopusher chronograph from De Bethune. One that belies its complexity in the movment, the dial side looks like a regular three hand watch. But notice there are two seconds hands – one sweep seconds mounted on the center, and another rather large sub-seconds hand over the 6 o’clock position.
The rest of the dial is ultra classical. The sub-seconds counter is has a magnificent guilloché barleycorn pattern which contrasts against the hand engraved background. The hands are beautiful as well, being blued to the exact shade in Denis Flageolet’s mind. The indices take on the same signature De Bethune blue hue, and complements the hands perfectly. Making a harmonious and aesthetically pleasing view of the dial side. House this in a classical round case, but with the De Bethune signature hollowed out lugs, the watch is winning beauty contests all over.
Flip the watch over, ant the movement, displayed under the sapphire glass cover, continues to impress. This is the same movement used in the DB Eight released in 2023 and is the caliber DB3000. The movement layout is busy, but with a purpose. The plates are magnificently finished, and the signature blue balance wheel, now in titanium and white gold with a flat terminal curve and silicon balance spring.
This is the fourth monopusher chronograph. The first was the DB1 was released in 2002 as a single button chronograph. It had the movement designed by Denis Flageollet, but borrowing strongly from the architecture of the monopoussoir chronograph caliber 045MC he had developed while running Techniques Horlogères Appliquées (THA) – a manufacture he was a partner together with François-Paul Journe and Vianney Halter. This movement is used in the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir CPCP ref. 2396B. Then came the DB8 monopusher chronograph, which was dubbed Football Timer in 2003. It had the very simplified dial layout with only one sub-dial placed at 6 o’clock, which is the minute totaliser counting up to 45 minutes for a full revolution. The movement is based on the 045MC, but modified to put the 45 minute counter at 6 o’clock in place of a running seconds and a 60 minute sub-counter found on the DB1. The DB8 was re-released as the DB Eight in 2024. Then came the MaxiChrono DB29 Tourbillon and DB28. Again, similar design aesthetics. Same architecture for the dial layout, but with two of the most impressive and complicated chronograph movements we have ever seen. Both MaxiChronos use 3 column wheels to control the chronograph functions. Both have 5 hands: the hours, minutes, and the chronograph seconds, minutes and hours which are coaxially mounted from the center of the dial. The only difference between the DB29 and DB28 are the regulating organ, with the DB29 featuring a tourbillon. The MaxiChrono was re-released in the DB21 in 2019. All these had large cases, measuring 44mm. With this new DB25, the case size is reduced to just 40mm.
Release details
Alongside its bold, contemporary creations, De Bethune continues to refine its approach to classic watchmaking, enriching the DB25 collection with a monopusher chronograph. This complication holds special significance for Denis Flageollet, De Bethune’s founder and Master Watchmaker, as it echoes the brand’s first horological endeavors in 2002.
The DB25 Monopusher Chronograph marks the fourth monopusher chronograph model in the manufacture’s history, continuing a journey begun over two decades ago with the DB1 (2002), followed by the DB8 (2003), the DB28 Maxichrono (2014), and the DB Eight in 2023.
Sport-Chic Elegance, Reimagined
The DB25 Monopusher Chronograph draws inspiration from the refined aesthetics of the 1920s and 1930s, paying homage to the craftsmanship of 18th-century horological masters like Jean-Antoine Lépine and Julien Leroy.
“For each new model, I always work from a classic foundation of a silvered dial and blued hands,” states Denis Flageollet.
The dial, minimalist and elegant, showcases meticulous craftsmanship—particularly in how it interacts with light and material finishes, a hallmark of De Bethune’s approach. Hand-decorated, it features a prominent 60-minute counter at 6 o’clock with barleycorn guilloché, subtly contrasting against the radiant, hand-engraved background to ensure optimal legibility of the elapsed time.
Readability is further enhanced by De Bethune’s signature shade of blue, which appears in the numerals, minute track, indicators, and the striking, blued-polished titanium chronograph hand at the center.
40 mm: A Technical Feat Achieved
Fitting a chronograph movement into a reduced 40 mm case posed a significant technical challenge—one that De Bethune’s team in L’Auberson met with remarkable ingenuity. This technical achievement does not compromise the refined aesthetic of the DB25.
Crafted from mirror-polished grade 5 titanium, the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph is remarkably lightweight. The coaxial chronograph pusher is seamlessly integrated into the crown at 3 o’clock, and the slim bezel enhances the dial’s openness. The refined, open-worked lugs—tapered and adorned with ogival motifs— accentuate the watch’s rounded geometry while ensuring a comfortable fit on the wrist.
The DB3000 Caliber’s Performance
Introduced in 2023 with the launch of the DB Eight, the DB3000 caliber is the 31st movement entirely designed and produced in-house by De Bethune. Reimagined by Denis Flageollet and his technical team, this movement reflects a long-standing ambition to create a monopusher chronograph that incorporates the latest technology, expertise, and resources of the brand.
A classic reinterpreted with a contemporary and innovative spirit, the movement features an ultra-thin column wheel and an instantaneous 60-minute counter—an impressive technical feat for this type of mechanism. Additionally, it integrates De Bethune’s latest innovations, including a titanium and white gold balance wheel, a flat terminal curved hairspring, and a silicon escape wheel.
The movement’s distinctive architecture is revealed through the case back, showcasing fully mirror-polished steel bridges and an array of intricate details that highlight the artisans’ exceptional craftsmanship and meticulous attention to detail.
Collectors and fine watch enthusiasts will appreciate the refined elegance of this classic chronograph, paired with the discreet wearability of a precise and technically advanced mechanism.
De Bethune DB25 Monopusher Chronograph Specifications
Reference : DB25Vxs
Functions : Hours, Minutes, chronograph mono pusher button with 60 s seconds counter and 60 min instantaneous minute counter
Movement : DB3000
Type : Mechanical manual-winding caliber
Adjustement : Winding and setting the time by means of the crown (2 positions) * Monopusher button integrated in the crown for chronograph functions
Technical features of caliber DB3000
Number of parts : 296
Jewelling : 31 jewels
Diameter : 30 mm
Power reserve : 60 hours
Specificities : Titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts, optimized for temperature differences and air penetration De Bethune Patent (2016) * “De Bethune” balance-spring with flat terminal curve De Bethune Patent (2006) * Silicon escape wheel
Frequency : 28’800 vibrations per hour
Adornment : All steels are hand-beveled and polished * Chromium-plated steel chronograph bridges flat polsihed * Hand-snailed barrels * Handmade finishing decorations
Display
Display : Dial : Hour hands, minutes, polished titanium seconds and minutes counters * Silver, radiating guilloche 12 sectors. Blue arabic numbers. * Indication of the 60-minute counter by a silvered barley grain engine-turned sub-dial at 6 o’clock.
Case and strap
Case material : Polished grade 5 titanium
Case diameter : 40.6 mm
Case thickness : 9,15 mm
Lugs : Integrated and openwork lugs
Crystal : Saphir crystal (1 800 Vickers hardness), with double anti-reflective coating
Case back : Open, polished grade 5 titanium screw-down back * Saphir crystal (1 800 Vickers hardness), with double anti-reflective coating
Water-resistance : 3 ATM
Strap : Extra-supple alligator leather, alligator lined
Buckle : Pin buckle in grade 5 titanium
