Breva Geneve unveils a new collection: the Segreto di Lario with a movement created by Jean-François Mojon.
Press Release with commentary in italics.
New: Breva Geneve Segreto di Lario
The Breva Geneve Segreto di Lario will retail at CHF 58,000 before taxes.
Commentary
Breva Geneve was founded in 2010, but is reborn today under the leadership of Julien Haenny. Julien comes with some 20 years of experience in the watch industry, having been the CEO of Anonimo and Vulcain. He has also held executive positions at MGI Luxury Group, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and TechnoMarine, and also served as Head of Marketing & Communication at HYT. The revival of Breva chose not to go alone and invent a movement all by themselves, or just use one of the ubiquitous ébauches in the business and customise. But they went to Jean-François Mojon of Chronode and commissioned a brand new movement.
The inspiration of the brand and the new collection comes from Lake Como in Italy. “La Breva,” the southern breeze that gently caresses this lake, imparting a sense of freedom and mystery. And the collection name “Segreto di Lario” is translated from Italian to mean “the secrets of Lake Como”. The word “Lario” in Italian refers to Lake Como, and the name is derived from the Latin word “Larius,” which means “deep place”.
The cushion shaped rose gold case is reminiscent of the Panerai Radiomir without the signature wire loops, but with a more conventional soldered lugs. We guess this is perhaps not a coincidence with Julien’s former assignment as CEO of Anonimo. The case is 41mm in nominal diameter, and has a stepped design, with the sapphire crystal looking above like a dome. A polished bombé ring leading to another curved surface finished in a circular grain, these two surfaces serves as the bezel proper. This complex bezel attaches to the mid-case which offers contrast by means of a high polish finish. The lugs appear to be soldered directly to this mid-case.
The case is crafted by AB Concept, which we encountered in our visit to Czapek and was shown their capability of producing excellent work. The dial is a beautiful blue with satin brushed and an angled perimeter. A retrograde small seconds sits just below the 12 o’clock position. The dial cuts out from about 4:30 o’clock to 7:30 o’clock position on the dial to show the what looks like the movement plate. But is an appliqué which sits on the back of the movement plate. This plate is beautifully finished with a Côte de Genéve on the rhodium plated surface and diamond polished chamfers. The dial is designed by EDGE Design, led by Fabrice Gonet and Olivier Leu and is made by Cadranor, a 40 year veteran of the industry known for high quality and complicated dials.
The key design characteristic of the new Breva is the crossed hands shown at the dial side, anchored at about 5 o’clock and 7 o’clock. These hands have a visual impact which is not insignificant, and their importance is to track the power reserve of the watch. The first hand anchored on the right (about 5 o’clock in traditional dial nomenclature) displays the overall power reserve over 6 days, and the second hand takes over the final 24 hours to show a more detailed and precise reading of the remaining energy. The hands are both retrograde.
The movement looks to have been finished very well, though we can pass our judgement after we have examined the watch. But from the high resolution photographs provided in the release, all the typical haute horlogerie elements are there. The Côtes de Genève, circular satin finishing, polished chamfers, sandblasted surfaces appear to be executed very well.
We look forward to encountering this watch, hopefully in Watches & Wonders Geneva, but our schedule is incredibly hectic, so we hope we can find a pocket of time to explore this watch to bring you our hands-on views.
Release details (abridged)
Blending the spirit of La Dolce Vita from Lake Como with the excellence of Swiss watchmaking expertise, BREVA GENEVE offers lovers of haute horlogerie a hedonistic, refined, and functional timepiece with a high-caliber manufacture movement. Founded in 2010, the independent watch brand remains in symbiosis with nature and embarks on a new chapter in its ascent.
The Breva, the identity wind of Lake Como.
The sweetness of life on Lake Como would certainly not be the same without this regular and gentle southern breeze coming from the mountains. Appreciated by sailing enthusiasts, it is born from the natural thermal effects of the lake’s environment and gives life to the entire region. More than its name, this joyful, gentle, and subtle Italian wind gives its breath to BREVA GENEVE.
The Breva Classic Collection « Segreto di Lario », a secret to share.
The Breva Classic collection opens with the « Segreto di Lario model » (Secret of Lake Como in Italian). It is an invitation to give the keys to understand what makes the region of Lake Como so uniquely magical. This exclusive edition of 25 pieces is distinguished by a 41mm diameter, 11.10mm thick 18K 5N+ rose gold cushion-shaped case, water-resistant to 50 meters, and features a retrograde small seconds display as well as a double power reserve scale.
This « secret » echoes the seventh day, evoking a journey outside of time, where one loses all sense of duration and fully savors the Dolce Vita of the region. Like a timeless interlude dedicated to pleasure and beauty. Like a treasure carefully preserved, these places spared from prying eyes embody the timeless beauty and discreet elegance of the lake. They resonate in perfect harmony with the spirit of the model. More than just a timepiece, the «Segreto di Lario» model pays tribute to the instruments of the past, recalling the tools with which explorers understood the natural world around them. Inspired by the equipment of those who dared to go beyond boundaries, the watch reinvents the power reserve complication by introducing the dimension of time at the heart of its design.
The model is equipped with a retrograde small seconds display, adding a unique charm to the design, while the delicately polished and finely balanced hands create a fluid and graceful movement. The hands, thin and carefully shaped, provide the final touch to this exceptional dial. Every glance at the time becomes a moment of wonder thanks to the exclusive display of the functions, marked by the brand’s iconic crossed hands system, ensuring optimal readability and a rare visual balance.
The dial of the « Segreto di Lario » is beautifully crafted. Its central part, from 6 o’clock to 12 o’clock, features a vertical satin finish that extends to a lower section adorned with vertical Côtes de Genève and polished chamfers, all rhodium-plated for additional refinement. These exceptional finishes give the dial a depth and brilliance reminiscent of the changing reflections of Lake Como throughout the hours.
The « Segreto di Lario », water-resistant to 50 meters, is also distinguished by its rose gold cushion-shaped case. Designed to perfectly embrace the wrist, it strikes a balance between comfort and style. The 18K 5N+ rose gold ardillon buckle on its hand-stitched leather strap aligns with the model’s spirit of refinement. The sapphire crystals treated with anti-reflective coating on both sides improve the readability of the functions while allowing for contemplation of the depth and exquisite details of the dial. The high-quality finishes, including circular satin surfaces, polished chamfers, and meticulous engravings, reflect craftsmanship that connoisseurs will appreciate. The case back reveals the movement, infused with the expertise of BREVA GENEVE.
An exclusive movement signed Chronode and Jean-François Mojon
The « Segreto di Lario » houses an exclusive manual-winding movement, developed for Breva by the talented master watchmaker Jean-François Mojon and his manufacture Chronode. This movement, with remarkable precision and high-quality finishes, brings life and rhythm to every component of the watch. Inspired by the rigor of the best measuring instruments of the past, this movement with 29 jewels features two barrels that guarantee an exceptional 7-day power reserve. A tribute to traditional watchmaking heritage, the « Segreto di Lario » integrates modern solutions.
« We developed an exclusive power reserve display for BREVA GENEVE that consists of a double retrograde time scale: one for the total 6-day power reserve duration, and on the opposite side, a display for the remaining 24 hours. The power reserve indication from the base movement is split into two kinematic chains, each carrying a dedicated cam. Two rake feelers, one per cam, transmit the information to each hand, and two hairsprings maintain tension to ensure constant contact between the cam and feeler. This original 7-day power reserve reading is both intuitive and precise » explains Jean-François Mojon in detail.
Every detail is meticulously crafted to evoke the flawless precision of Swiss craftsmanship, meeting the expectations of the most discerning connoisseurs. Its exceptional finishes include a sandblasted case back, circular satin finish, polished chamfers, and Côtes de Genève, reflecting the expertise and care taken at every stage of its design. These elements highlight the craftsmanship of master watchmaker Jean-François Mojon and Chronode, and their ability to blend tradition and innovation. The bespoke solutions developed by Chronode stand out for their modernity and exclusivity.
Through his liberated approach to mechanical construction, Jean-François Mojon and Chronode always combines performance and aesthetics in each of his creations. With each piece meticulously crafted and shaped to offer an exceptional horological experience, this movement carries a philosophy.
Much more than a watch, the « Segreto di Lario » is a tribute to the history of watchmaking and a testament to contemporary innovation, offering its owner a timekeeping instrument and an intimate connection with Swiss watchmaking tradition.
The return of BREVA GENEVE would not be possible without reference partners who, in the background, shape each component with remarkable precision. EDGE Design, led by Fabrice Gonet and Olivier Leu, excels in creating modern designs. Their expertise in technical design incorporates elements of innovation while preserving watchmaking tradition and the DNA of the BREVA GENEVE brand. Every line, every curve is carefully considered to evoke both elegance and functionality. The watches are not just beautiful, they tell a story.
AB Concept, specialist in case design, brings unparalleled attention to detail and the quality of materials. Each case is a work of precision, crafted with techniques that ensure both robustness and sophistication. The use of rose gold and other precious metals, combined with artisanal craftsmanship, ensures that each piece withstands the test of time, in addition to its immediate desirability.
Cadranor, known for its expertise in dial manufacturing, stands out for its commitment to creating perfectly finished surfaces, delicate textures, and finishes that capture light spectacularly. Each dial is the result of meticulous work aimed at offering optimal readability while incorporating refined aesthetic elements.
The hands, made by GMG Composants, also testify to exceptional craftsmanship. The precision with which they are designed allows for a perfect balance between aesthetics and functionality. Each finely crafted hand adds a dimension of fluidity and lightness to the entire watch.
The leather straps, crafted by Cinturini in the countryside near Turin, Italy, are the result of high-level craftsmanship. Each piece is carefully hand-finished and benefits from a selection of top-quality leathers combined with traditional sewing techniques. They ensure comfort, ergonomics, and durability.
These partners, true references in their fields, are committed to upholding the purest tradition of the watchmaking industry, thus guaranteeing the Swiss Made label. Their collaboration with BREVA GENEVE illustrates a shared passion for excellence, quality, and innovation. Together, they create watches that are not only timekeeping instruments but also testimonies of emotion and authenticity, celebrating the beauty of horological art in every detail.
Breva Geneve Segreto di Lario Specifications
Functions:
- Hours, minutes
- Retrograde seconds
- 7-day power-reserve indicator with special double, non-linear display (6 days + last 24 hours)
Case, dial, and strap:
- Case material: 18K 5N+ rose gold
- Dimensions: 41 mm x 11.10 mm
- Cushion-shaped case
- Crystals: double-sided anti-reflective treatment
- Dial: Central satin-finished dial (12h-6h). Lower dial: Vertical Côtes de Genève, diamond-polished chamfers, rhodium-plated
- Haute horlogerie finishing level
- Unique function display
- Visible movement through the case back
- Slim and elegant hands
- Water resistance: 50 m
- Strap with titanium insert: Handmade blue alligator leather, available in three sizes:
Standard 115 x 75 mm; Small 105 x 65 mm (on request); XL 125 x 85 mm (on request) - Pin buckle with engraved logo in 18K 5N+ rose gold
Movement:
- Manually wound mechanical movement with a 7-day power reserve, developed exclusively for BREVA GENEVE by Jean-François Mojon/Chronode, based on the C101 movement.
- Diameter: 31.10 mm
- Movement height: 3.98 mm
- Frequency: 3 Hz
- 29 jewels
- 2 barrels
- Power reserve: 7 days
- High-end finishing
Decoration & finishing
Movement:
- Côtes de Genève
- Rhodium-plated bridges
- Hand-beveled bridges
- Sandblasted engravings
- Polished bevel ratchet
- Snail-finished ratchet top surface
- Microblasting
- Straight graining
Dial:
- Hand-finished vertical satin-brushed central dial (12h-6h) with an angled perimeter
- Lower dial with rhodium-plated vertical Côtes de Genève
- Polished bevels
- Blued, polished, and gently curved hands
- Polished pinions
- Rhodium-plated retrograde applique, polished beveled edges, circular satin finish
- Applied logo with a brushed finish (12h-6h) and polished surface
Case:
- Circular satin-brushed crown with polished logo, microblasted case back
- Polished crown guard decoration
- Polished notching on case back
- Circular satin-brushed case back
- High-precision laser engraving
- All bevels polished
- Polished screw heads with sandblasted slots
- Microblasted case band
- Polished lugs
- Polished outer bezel
- Circular satin-brushed inner flange
