New: Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 in platinum

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The Breguet Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887 collection is updated with a new version in platinum.

Press Release information with commentary in italics.

New: Breguet Marine releases a platinum version of their Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887

The retail price of the Breguet Équation Merchants Ref 5887PT925WV is SGD 387,900 with GST.

Commentary

A new Ref. 5887 from Breguet in platinum. This adds to the existing model in platinum with a blue dial, and two other variants in rose gold. The watch was released in platinum with blue dial and rose gold with silver dial in 2017.

We refer you to our comprehensive review of the Ref. 5887/PT/Y2/9WW in platinum, blue dial release model here. This novelty release is the same watch, but now with a black dial with white chapter ring.

We quite like the monochromatic look of the new watch. But regular readers already know that we are partial to this very discreet styling. But what is interesting with this new release is that while still very understated, it does have a presence. Not only the 44mm case, considered large these days, but also the black and silver dial. The tourbillon with its magnificent bridge and the equation of time cam visible at the 5 o’clock position enhances this look.

The rest of the styling offers the rather numerous indications a very neutral platform to showcase not only the hours, minutes, but also minutes of solar time in the center, the small seconds hand on the tourbillon cage, date, day, moon, leap year and power reserve indication. Already quite a mouthful to write all these, but the display is very elegant and does not feel cluttered.

Finishing is high end, as is typical of Breguet.

Release information

A complication as exceptional as this is mesmerising, the Equation Marchante records the difference between local time – the time that punctuates our daily lives – and solar time – the time dictated by the earth’s rotation relative to the sun. Featuring a perpetual calendar and a tourbillon, this Marine piece is made in platinum, a rare and durable precious metal renowned for its remarkable resistance to corrosion and enduring brilliance.

Abraham-Louis Breguet, Watchmaker to the Royal Navy

The origins of the contemporary collection trace back to the prestigious title “Watchmaker to the French Royal Navy” awarded to Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the eponymous workshop in 1775, by Louis XVIII on October 27th, 1815, a year after he was appointed a member of the Board of Longitude. This distinguished role crowned the revolutionary advances that the master made over four decades and drew on his scientific knowledge acquired during his training with his mathematician Father Joseph-François Marie, as well as renowned watchmakers such as Ferdinand Berthoud and Jean-Antoine Lépine. It enabled him to design marine chronometers, indispensable precision tools for astronomical navigation, and to calculate the position of ships in a fleet.

Montres Breguet’s rich heritage, which connects the House to the oceans and navigation, has paved the way for the Marine collection, a family of timepieces with a sporty silhouette and signature aesthetics that clearly evoke the codes of the marine world: a dial decorated with a hand guilloché “wave” motif, a crown guard with an undulating profile, a hand finished with an anchor among other distinctive features.

Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante 5887, ambassador of Breguetexpertise

This highly technical timepiece, featuring three mechanical high complications: the running equation of time, perpetual calendar, and tourbillon, – driven by the self-winding Calibre 581DPE, embodies the spirit of innovation that has characterised the brand since its inception.

Equation Marchante

This exceptional complication simultaneously displays the difference between mean solar time (calendar hours and minutes) and true solar time (used since ancient times, it can maximally deviate by up to 14 minutes late or 16 minutes early) thanks to an equation of time cam linked to a feeler to drive the equation lever.

With the Marine 5887, reading the time is instantaneous thanks to its two minute hands: one Breguet-style with a luminescent tip for calendar time, and the other, finished with a gold plated, diamond polished and fluted ring, for solar time.

Perpetual calendar

Acting like a mechanical diary, this complication indicates the date with an anchor-shaped retrograde hand that follows an arc-shaped scale, graduated from 1 to 31, located in the upper part of the dial. The day, month and leap year are displayed in two open windows at 10.30 and 1.30. This information is detailed in white on a black background for easy legibility.

Tourbillon

Created by Abraham-Louis Breguet, patented in 1801 to counter the adverse effects of gravity on the running of mechanical movements in pocket watches, features a titanium cage and a Breguet balance-spring made in silicon at around 5 o’clock.

To enhance the functionalities of the Marine Equation Marchante 5887, a blued gauge positioned between 7 and 8.30 o’clock provides information on the level of stored energy available, which amounts to 80 hours when the watch is fully wound.

An engraved platinum peripheral oscillating weight decorated with a “wave” motif wraps around the hand chiselled back of the calibre 581DPE depicting the silhouette of the Royal Louis, a Royal Navy warship commissioned in 1752. The barrel is decorated with a hand engraved compass rose.

Guilloché and engraving are delicate arts, executed by hand by exceptional artisans, true masters of their craft. Each pattern is patiently sculpted, each line traced with infinite precision, breathing unique, almost lifelike character into each timepiece. These pieces become much more than mere timepieces: they capture the essence of time and the soul of the artisan, offering a rare luxury — that of wearing an exclusive and inimitable work of art.

Aesthetic poetry: the open sea under the night sky

Presented in 2017, the Marine Equation Marchante 5887 initially featured a 43.9 mm diameter case available in platinum or pink gold with an ultramarine face. Three years later for the 220th anniversary of the tourbillon, the collection was expanded to include the warm reflections of pink gold combined with a chocolate-coloured dial.

This autumn, Montres Breguet completes the series by choosing the gentle strength of platinum for its fluted case. This precious grey metal is combined with the black hue for the “wave” guilloché dial, evoking the image of an ocean cradled by the silvery glow of the Moon.

At the centre of this image, four hands play a precise role: the stylised pair of Breguet hands with Super-LumiNova® filled tips indicating the hours and minutes, the hand with a golden circle indicating the solar time, and finally the hand with an anchor indicating the date. Raised blackened gold appliques Roman numerals are set on a wide circular-brushed ring, interspersed with luminescent dots and surmounted by gold hour-markers in the shape of nautical pennants.

Marine Tourbillon Equation Marchante Ref. 5887PT/92/5WV Technical Specifications

Key points Marine Equation Marchante 5887PT, perpetual calendar, 60-second tourbillon, calibre 581DPE, automatic winding, 80-hour power reserve, 43.9 mm-diameter 950 platinum case, fluted middle, black 18K gold dial with a “wave” hand-executed engine-turned decoration

Case Platinum 950 * 43.9mm diameter * 11.8mm thickness * Fluted middle * Sapphire caseback single, internal anti-reflective coating * Wave-shaped crown-guard * Sapphire crystal, double anti-reflective * Water-resistant: 10 bar (100m)

Dial Movement White gold with black finishing, hand-guilloché “wave” motif * Circular brushed silvered hour circle * Black Roman numerals in 18K gold appliqué * Pyramid hour markers in 18K gold and luminescent material * Date with retrograde hand from 9 to 3 o’clock * Applied 18K rhodium-plated gold windows, day at 10.30, month and year at 1.30 * Rhodium-plated hands: Breguet tip, in 18K gold faceted, Super-LumiNova® with * blue emission colour (calendar time) – baton, gold plated ring (solar time) – straight, * ship’s anchor, retrograde (date) – triangular on tourbillon (months) * Tourbillon opening at 5 o’clock, sapphire crystal

Movement Calibre 581DPE, numbered and signed Breguet, 16 ½ lines, 563 components, 57 jewels * Automatic winding * Peripheral oscillating weight in 950 platinum, engine-turned by hand with a “wave” motif * Frequency 4Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) * Flat silicon spiral * Silicon escapement wheel * Inverted rib anchor, silicon horns * Single barrel * 80-hour power reserve * Hand-engraved decorative Royal Louis ship, compass rose * Tourbillon: titanium cage Grade 5, engraved “MARINE ROYALE” bar * Equation of time cam on Tourbillon axis

Indicators Hours, minutes in the centreIndicators Hours, minutes in the centre * Minutes (solar time) in the centre * Small seconds on the tourbillon * Date hand * Day, month, leap year in 18K rhodium-plated applied windows * Power reserve

Bracelet Black textured rubber * Triple-blade 950 platinum folding clasp

Variations 950 platinum case, blue dial (ref. 5887PT/Y2/9WV) * 18K rose gold case, brown dial (ref. 5887BR/G2/9WV) * 18K rose gold case, silver dial (ref. 5887BR/12/9WV)

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