Berneron releases their first complicated watch, after making waves with their odd-shaped case/hands watch, the Mirage. Introducing the Berneron Quantième Annuel.
Press Release information with commentary in italics.
New: Berneron Quantième Annuel
The Berneron Quantième Annuel has the following price structure:
- 2026 > CHF 120’000
- 2027 > CHF 130’000
- 2028 > CHF 140’000
Prices are before taxes. First deliveries are expected to begin in October 2025, at the rate of 24 pieces per colour per year for a period of 10 years (series A).
Commentary
We have followed the career of Sylvian Berneron with interest since first coming across him during his tenure at Breitling as Chief Product Designer. He started his own brand in 2022, and in the corporate manifesto, which is one of the most interesting we have seen, is laid out a rather comprehensive and ambitious plan to lead up to an annual production of 600 watches across 4 collections and 25 references.
They first burst into the scene with their own branding with the Mirage, which caught the eye of the collector market due to the unusual shape of the case and hands. The design reminds us of the melting clocks of Salvadore Dali. Currently, this collection has 4 references, viz two sizes of 34mm and 38mm and two different metal cases being offered in each. This design got them the Audacity Prize at the 2024 GPHG.
This new watch is the first complicated offering by Berneron. The watch is currently only offered in a 38mm platinum case, with two dial variants – one with blue accents over silver and the other with silver accents over a black base.
The case design is interesting as it features a steel layer concept where a thin layer of 904L steel accounting for 15% of the weight is layered into the platinum case. The case design is complex, with components which are removable and replaceable.
The design is notable for the very proportionally laid out dial architecture. All the indicators of a standard annual calendar is present, and showed with impressive clarity. The digital displays for the hour, and the apertures for the day of week and month offer a symmetry that is very pleasing. Right in the middle,is a hammer like hand which indicates the retrograde date. This hand is coaxial to the minute hand. The subsidiary seconds hand with its day/night display anchors the design at the 6 o’clock position. To read the time, one goes from top to bottom for the hours, minutes and seconds. And to read the date, one goes from left to right for the day, date and month. Interesting solution to a common problem in a dial which need to display a lot of information like the annual calendar.
Setting the mechanism is fairly intuitive. The crown operates the usual time and date indicators, and the day and month discs are advanced by two large pushers (not pin points) which are integrated into the case, but are level with the case side. The movement also carries safety features to ensure that the watch can be manipulated at any time without the danger of damaging the movement.
The movement is symmetrically laid out, and looks to be very well finished. The layout is unusual, and instead of the common bridge layout which allows the wheel train to be traced from the case back, the view of through the sapphire glass shows a big plate holding the mainspring and the wheels for the jumping mechanism of the day, date, month and hour. A magnificent bridge carries the balance wheel.
This arrangement is clearer from the movement side below the dial, where the outsized displays for the day of week and month is visible. Also visible is the indicator to show day/night.
Pricing is par for the course for a platinum watch with an annual calendar. The CHF 120k, rising to 140k in 3 years is quite competitive.
Release details
BERNERON SA
A quick recap on the company itself.
INDUSTRY
Our philosophy is Derestricted horology. Our goal is to bring a meaningful and creative contribution to the watch world. With a launch sequence already prepared for the next decade, we’ll launch one piece per year, every year during the first week of September. We project a slow but steady growth, to reach an annual production of 600 watches by 2035, spread across 4 collections and 25 references.
COMPANY
Our production is 100% Swiss made and all our suppliers are located within a 50km radius around us. This modus operandi reflects our desire to support the local economy and limit our energy footprint. Berneron SA is 100% self-funded & independent; it’s owned by the family and the team. Fair collaboration is one of our core principles, that’s why we apply a responsible salary scale (a multiple of 3 between the lowest and highest salary) as well as the opportunity to become a partner (0,2 to 6,0%) after three years of service.
PRODUCT
We produce less, but to the highest quality we possibly can. Each piece is individually numbered and produced at the rate of 24 pieces per year, for 10 years. Then the next Series is launched, which is an evolution of the previous one. Continuity will be ensured between the different series, in order to build a stable portfolio, both for the us and the collectors.
QUANTIÉME ANNUEL
Introducing our second collection.
SEGMENT
The Quantième collection will cover the highly technical and complicated approach to watchmaking in our portfolio, continuing the work carried out over several decades by institutional brands in this segment.
COLLECTION
Meaning “counter”, the Quantième collection was developed with the desire to create a new standard for complicated calendars, as well as future complications. The user experience was paramount throughout the entire development process, and after two years of intensive research, we are happy to provide a set of innovative technical solutions, such as:
– Readability
We completely re-designed the dial architecture to offer a fluid interaction with the watch. You’ll read the time from top to bottom > hour, minutes & seconds. And the date from left to right > day, date & month. Combined together, the sequenced information layout and the enlarged apertures offer a significant improvement in terms of readability on the dial.
– Quick set procedure
Complicated calendars often come with a drawback: they require reading the user manual and, in the worst cases, adjustment can take up to 20 to 25 minutes. We decided to tackle this problem from the inside out by developing our caliber 595 around the “less time setting than winding” philosophy. Therefore the commands have been placed on the case band in the most intuitive way possible. The TIME and DATE are set with the crown (back and forth), just like on any conventional watch. For the DAY and MONTH, two smooth pushers have been added to the case band, allowing the nearest aperture to be set.
– Safety mode
Calendar watches have a well-earned reputation for being temperamental, if you set them incorrectly, you are often good for of an expensive trip back to the manufacturer; but not here. In the event of accidental tampering during the setting process, our caliber 595 is equipped with a safety device that resets the date to the first day of the following month.
Exemple: if you push on the MONTH corrector on Jan.31st, the watch will jump to Feb.1 instead of Feb.31 which doesn’t exist.
– Steel layer
To overcome the weaknesses of platinum (easily scratched but tedious to repair), our Quantième collection features our new steel layer concept, which involves applying a thin layer of 904L steel (15% of total mass) to a Pt950 platinum case (85% of total mass) in order to increase its longevity. This layer is composed of six distinct components, all removable and replaceable throughout the life of the piece. You’ll then have the best of both worlds: the peace of mind with steel contact points while enjoying the luster and heft of platinum. Not to mention the absence of the “should I polish my watch or not ?” dilemma during a service.
Finally, we like to believe that our new Annual Calendar will finally allow collectors to enjoy sophisticated watchmaking on a daily basis, while removing the usual layer of worry and trouble that accompanies it.
ALL-NEW CALIBER 595
Following the dial architecture, the caliber 595 features a unique “cross architecture”, in the form of a double regulator (one for the time and the other for the calendar) consisting of 4 instantaneous jumping apertures, 2 swiping hands, 1 retrograde date.
Energy storage and consumption has been a real challenge for this project, as in some cases (such as midnight on December 31st) all five jumps occur simultaneously.
This requires a double barrel and a construction in which the movement stores energy in 4 different places (over the course of 12H, 24H, 7 days and 31 days) to activate the various jumps.
Bernaron Quantième Annuel Specifications
CASING
Dimensions – Diameter: 38,00 mm. – Lug to lug: 45,00 mm. – Thickness: 10,00 mm. * Case – Pt950 platinum case (85% of total mass). – 904L steel layer (6 components). * Glass – Top: sapphire / inner AR coating. – Bottom: sapphire / inner AR coating. * Hands – 18K white gold.
Dial: – Lacquered 18K gold base plate. * Buckle – 904L stainless steel. * Spring bars – 904L stainless steel. Strap: – 20-16 mm Barenia leather. – Size range covered: 140 > 195 mm / 5,50 > 7,68 inches. Water resistance – 30 meters (3ATM)
MOVEMENT CALIBER 595
Dimensions – Diameter: 30,00 mm – Thickness: 5,95 mm * Complication – Annual calendar & Jumping hour. – Correction: once per year on Feb.28 * Construction – 18k gold (main plate & bridges). – 476 components & 33 jewels. * Regulation – Free sprung balance wheel. * Frequency – 21,600 VpH (3Hz). * Power reserve – 100 hours / 4 days. * Escapement – Traditional Swiss lever. * Decoration – Berçage > balance bridge. – Black polish > balance bridge. – Nuagage > bridge pockets. – Guillochage > bridges. – Traits tirés > steel levers. – Anglage > bridges & levers – Cerclage > wheels.
