New: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple

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Armin Strom releases a new variation of their Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire collection with a purple guilloché dial mainplate made by Kari Voutilainen.

Press Release information with commentary in italics.

New: Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple

The Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple will retail at SGD 44,540 inclusive of GST. Limited to 25 pieces a year.

Commentary

This novelty is all about the new main plate, which is a engine turned guilloché piece in purple made by celebrated watchmaker and guilloché guru Kari Voutilainen. The watch is based on the Gravity Equal Force, which is the exact same watch as the one used in the SHH Edition (and many others, including one in the Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force catalog which currently numbers some 8 watches, including 2 for the ladies), but with a different hue on the main plate. Same movement, same case, same everything except for the main plate’s colour.

The main plate still features the traditional barley grain guilloché pattern, but now features a pastel-ish purple colour applied using a 3D PVD process. Armin Strom claims this process allows a wide spectrum of tones which is visible depending on the direction of light striking it. We have not seen the actual watch in person, but having examined the SHH Edition, and the salmon dial on that piece does seem to display this shimmering effect of different tones visible as one turns the watch.

Pricing wise, the asking price of SGD 44.5k is a bit lower than the SHH Edition, which retailed at SGD 46.1k, and is not set at a premium over the regular grey main plate guilloché Sapphire Ultimate piece. This pricing is reflective of the consideration that the SHH Edition is a strict limitation of only 8 pieces, while the Purple Edition is a limited production of 25 pieces a year.

Release details

Armin Strom fuses masterful mechanics with a bold chromatic twist, unveiling its latest Ultimate Sapphire Edition. The iconic Gravity Equal Force now sports a striking purple guilloché-engraved mainplate by Kari Voutilainen.

Armin Strom’s System 78 collection represents the independent manufacture’s purest expression of innovative haute horlogerie. Within it, the classical codes of watchmaking are revisited to bring about new functions and solutions, while also expressing the brand’s unique aesthetic sensibilities. With an emphasis on transparency, as well as highlighting kinetic elements, the Gravity Equal Force stands out as a technical tour-de-force with an instantly recognisable look – outstanding in form and function, finished by meticulous hand decoration.

Now, with the new ‘Purple’ Ultimate Sapphire Edition, Armin Strom is doubling down on integrating vibrant chromatic hues with exceptional mechanics.

Let it reign: Gravity Equal Force Purple

At once regal and electric, the latest edition of the Gravity Equal Force features a colour Armin Strom has never used before. Its base plate boasts a guilloché engraved motif with a barley grain pattern, expertly handcrafted in the atelier of acclaimed independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen using a traditional rose engine lathe. The striking purple colour is applied using a 3D PVD process, which reflects a wide spectrum of tones as it shifts with the light. Making this edition even more outstanding, the small off-centred dial is crafted from transparent sapphire crystal, which is reserved exclusively for the Gravity Equal Force’s Ultimate Sapphire Editions. The crowning glory is a light grey nubuck leather strap with purple stitching and keepers. The Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple is limited to a run of 25 pieces per year.

Automatic: redefined

The Gravity Equal Force stands out as the first automatic watch endowed with an equal force transmission integrated directly in the mainspring barrel – a patented mechanism by Armin Strom. It provides consistent power transmission to the regulating organ, ensuring unwavering precision throughout the watch’s autonomy. The power reserve indicator forms part of the barrel, which is entirely visible from the dial side, opposite the micro-rotor with a unique click system featuring two springs for better winding efficiency.

Also this latest creation, part of Armin Strom’s perpetual quest for superior chronometric performance, was entirely developed, manufactured and decorated within the walls of the Bienne-based manufacturing site. Like all Armin Strom watches, the Gravity Equal Force Purple’s movement is assembled a first time to ensure it is in perfect working order and that it meets the brand’s exacting decorative standards, then taken apart and assembled a second time when it is ready to be cased in its final form.

Putting the ‘haute’ in ‘horlogerie’

What separates a mere tool from a work of art is craftsmanship. Like a canvas for artistic expression, superlative hand-finishing applied by specialised watchmakers and seasoned artisans can be appreciated throughout the Gravity Equal Force and its many proudly exposed layers and components. Polished bevels (anglage) on the bridges, black polished screws, polished countersinks, perlage and various types of graining, be it straight or circular, as well as Geneva stripes on the three-quarter bridge visible through the case’s back.

One of the Gravity Equal Force’s most distinctive elements is the triplet of dark grey ruthenium-plated bridges that occupy the right-hand portion of the open display. Inspired by the finger-style bridges found in pocket watches, it takes up to an entire day for these bridges to be embellished by hand. First, the undersides are given a matt finish, after which the sides are given a straight-graining finish by carefully sliding them on an abrasive paper to produce continuous, shimmering fine lines. Then, the inner and outer chamfers of the bridges are bevelled with increasingly fine files and then finished with a flash polish using locally sourced gentian wood to remove even the finest lines. Finally, a straight-graining finish is applied to the top side for ultimate radiance.

Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Ultimate Sapphire Purple Specifications

Indications● Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator
MovementArmin Strom manufacture Caliber ASB19●  Automatic winding with micro rotor, Geneva-drive equal force barrel, offset displaywith subdial seconds●  Main plate: purple PVD plate with guilloché pattern by Kari Voutilainen●  Regulating system: Balance wheel with 4 regulating screws●  Power reserve: Geneva stop-work limited to 72 hours●  Dimensions: 35.52 mm x 11.67 mm Frequency: 3,5 Hz (25,200 vph)●  Finishing: Hand-finishing to the highest quality level●  Jewels: 28 Number of components: 202
CaseStainless steel●  Sapphire crystal and case back with anti-reflective treatment●  Diameter: 41 mm●  Height: 12.65 mm●  Water resistance: 3ATM●  Lug-to-Lug: 48.09 mm
Dial●  Grey toned off-center sapphire dial with subdial●  Hands: Faceted polished hands and Super-LumiNova® filling
Strap●  Delivered with a grey nubuck leather strap with purple stitching and keepers●  Width lugs/buckle: 20/18 mm●  Buckle: Pin buckle or folding clasp available in stainless steel

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