The small independent of Petermann Bedat has released their next chapter in their journey. The first was a Jumping Second, the second a split seconds chronograph, and now a return to the basics with a time only model they call the 1825.
We had a hands-on session when the watch was recently in Singapore, and here is our review.
New and Reviewed: Petermann Bedat 1825
The Petermann Bedat launch edition in rose gold and translucent green enamel dial retails at CHF 75,000, before taxes. Limited production for 4 years, 2026 to 2029.
The case, dial and hands
The case is a nice diameter of 38mm, with a thickness of just 10.15mm inclusive of the box sapphire glass. The first launch model is offered in a rose gold case. We understand that a Subscription series preceded this launch model, and that was offered in a tantalum case.
The dial is very attractive. Gone is the goofy looking dial of the first efforts. Now the dial is very polished and professional looking. Manufactured by Olivier Vaucher, the plates are in white gold, and a texture of a kind of graining is laid on the surface by a laser. The dial is then coated with a translucent green grand feu enamel. The Petermann Bedat logo is printed over this surface, and in close examination, looks like it is floating over the dial.
The green is a beautiful emerald green. In our photograph below, the inner medallion looks darker than the outer chapter ring, but this is probably due to the texture differenced between the two surfaces.
The hands remain the lancet style that Petermann Bedat has used from the early days. Overall, the watch looks very beautiful.
The movement
The movement is a time only caliber. This is Gaël and Florian’s interpretation of the Simplicity that many adore. There are no complications to obfuscate the perfection of simple watch. This is superbly beautiful movement. Sensual curves of the bridges are meticulously crafted. The anglage is executed perfectly. The bridges feature many sharp angles.
We are particularly impressed with the stainless steel bridge holding the canon pinion. This is shaped in the form of a shield, and consists of many sharp angles, both pointing out as well as inward ones. Anglage on steel bridges are more difficult to execute than on German Silver as steel is harder. We note that this steel bridge harmonises beautifully with the curves of the main German Silver plates. Also note the sharp points on the maillechort bridges meet and transition the curve beautifully.
However, we note that the sharp angles are executed such that the upper, more visible part ends in a sharper point than the lower angle. For example, this is visible in the steel bridge above, and also found on the bridges. The upper edge of the anglage is very sharp and finished almost to a point. This requires hand filing with a tool which gets progressively smaller till it reaches the near point. However, the bottom angle on the same bridge shows a tiny flare out into a radius. This is easier to execute that the bevels on both sides of bridge ending up in near points, without the one side showing a larger radius than the other. This could also be a stylistic choice. And if not an artistic call, it not a flaw, but an observation that there is room for improvement. A very minor one at that. The entire finishing is already at a higher level than those from the grand maisons.
The jewels are extra large, and this has become a signature of the Petermann Bedat branding. The movement is decorated with Côtes de Genève which are very nicely done. Note the grains left by the device used to make these stripes. The wheels are circular grained, with hand polished bevels. Also note the sharp angle where the arm meets the wheel. Also seen is the upper side is sharper than the lower.
The competitive landscape
At CHF 75k, this is perhaps par for the course for this day and age. The other independents who make their own movement and design are also roughly competitive at this point. Consider the Raúl Pagès RP2, which hits the market at CHF 89k. Simon Brette’s Chronomètre Artisans Rose Gold Edition is CHF 85k, and the Sylvian Pinaud Origine weighs in at a lighter CHF 68k. , but it comes with a steel case. From Japan, we can also consider the Credor Eichi II at about CHF 50k which has a completely different aesthetic. In fact, the watch can be compared to the Rexhep Rexhepi, the Dufour Simplicity. Both icons of the industry and both which are not available new anymore.
Concluding thoughts
Overall, we are very pleased with what we saw on the Petermann Bedat 1825. The offering shows a depth of maturity of both Gaël and Florian which is far beyond their youth may even remotely suggest. This is an accomplished product. Well thought out. Beautifully executed. It wears very nicely on the wrist, and at 38mm is the “perfect size” for today.
Petermann Bedat 1825 Specifications
Case: Rose gold * Diameter: 38.00 mm * Thickness: 10.15 mm crystal included * Box sapphire glass, anti-reflective coat
Dial and Hands: Manufactured by Olivier Vaucher, the dial plates are in white gold. A precise laser-textured finish is applied directly to the gold surface. Translucid green “grand feu” enamel. PB logo, minute and second track is printed. The 12 index and hour markers are polished and applied to the dial. Hour, minutes and second hands in rose gold finished by hand.
Buckle: Rose gold
Movement: Caliber 233 in-house movement with manual winding. German silver main plate and bridges. Stainless steel parts and solid gold wheels. Breguet overcoil balance spring. * Diameter: 30.00 mm * Power reserve: 56 hours * Frequency: 18’000 vibrations/hour * Number of jewels: 21
Decorations: Côtes de Genève on the bridges with hand polished chamfers. * Sun graining and perlage on the main plate. Steel parts bevelled, polished and black polished surface all by hand. Circular graining on the wheels with hand bevelled polished arms. Circular graining on the balance. Snail graini ng on the barrel and ratchet wheel.
