Louis Vuitton collaborates with a top independent watchmaker once again, this time with Kari Voutilainen to release the LVKV-02 GMR 6. With video and live photographs.
We attended the global launch event held in Phuket, Thailand and experienced the watch first hand. Here are our views and photographs of the novelty. We also caught up with Kari Voutilainen and asked him some questions on his involvement in the project.
Hands-on with the new: Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6- video and live pics
The Louis Vuitton x Kari Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMR 6 has a retail price of EUR 550,000, inclusive of Euro tax. Limited Edition of 5 pieces. All sold on the first day of launch.
This is an absolutely captivating novelty. The blend of DNA from the maisons of Louis Vuitton and Kari Voutilainen has resulted in this rather magnificent watch.
This is the second in the series that Louis Vuitton has shown admirable industry leadership of the young Jean Arnault. The first was with Rexhep Rexhepi LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie released in October 2023. We attended the event, and brought you first hand information of the release. We are here again at the launch event of the latest LVKV-02 GMT 6, held in Phuket, Thailand.
Video interview: Chatting with Kari Voutilainen on the LVKV-02 GMR 6
The name LVKV-02 GMR 6 may need a bit of an explanation. The LVKV is to denote the joint efforts of Louis Vuitton and Kari Voutilainen. This is second in the series by LV with master watchmakers, as noted the first was with Rexhep Rexhepi in 2023. GM stands for the GMT function and R for the power reserve indicator. And 6 is to indicate that the second timezone (home time) is displayed on a sub-dial at 6 o’clock, coaxial with the subsidiary seconds hand.
The case
When we first received the preliminary release document which had most of the release notes but no photographs, we thought it may be a “meh” watch. The novelty is a mere GMT watch. But when we saw and handled the watch on the hand, that unimpressed feeling completely left us, and replaced with great admiration and perhaps a certain kind of adoration.
The base watch that both maisons agreed to base the novelty on is the Escale, a model introduced only 2024. However, the model name was first used by Louis Vuitton in 2014. The first Escale then was a world time travel watch, showing the time in 24 cities simultaneously. And it looks like with this novelty, we have come full circle. But in this case, the LVKV-02 GMR shows only two timezones, with the central hour and minute hands showing local time, and a 24 hour single armed dial indicates home time.
This new watch brings the traditional Métiers d’Art in a perfect union with hard core technical watchmaking. Both partners contributing major parts of both disciplines to create the new watch. The case is crafted by the workshops of La Fabrique du Temps from pure tantalum for the case middle, and platinum for the bezel and lugs. The crown is also made in platinum. Kari explains that pure tantalum is difficult to machine, and thus platinum is chosen for those parts. Moreover, he also liked the combination of the two metals, which creates a special aesthetic. In our eyes, it could well have been a single metal, as it looked remarkably similar, though tye two metals have slightly different tonal hue. Also, the tantalum case middle received a satin matte finish, while the platinum lugs are finished with satin matte finish for the side facing up, and the vertical sides being in high polish. In accordance to the Escale case design, the platinum lugs are bolted onto the case sides.
Michel Navas, Master Watchmaker and Co-Founder of La Fabrique du Temps tells us that the use of tantalum presents extraordinary challenges in the manufacture. For example, the satin finishing on the tantalum on the case sides alone take some 4 hours of skilled hand labour to accomplish. But the final result, seems to be worth the effort. The contrast in finish create a 3 dimensional sense which is very attractive. And we further understand as the two metals will patina in different way and rates, the watch will look quite unique after a few years of wear.
Also, we would have thought that two dense metals would make the 40.5mm case feel heavy, but this is not the case. The watch wears well, as it is only 12.54mm thick, rather thick, but very proportional to the case diameter. And the watch sits nicely on the wrist, especially a flat 7.5″ wrist like mine.
The dial
The dial is impressive. Actually very impressive. It is not out of character for Kari to show slashes of colour on his dials. And in this collaborative effort, the colours are well displayed as a geometric pattern of the chapter ring for the hours. The dial is manufactured in gold. And each comprise of four separate layers. The rehaut holds the minute markers with dots.
And inner to that is the chapter ring for the hours. This ring is machined out of gold with raised lips to contain each of the many colours. And because the Roman numerals which serve as hour markers are on the same ring and machined together with the geometric pattern as one. The machining is done in the Voutilainen facility and the blank pieces are sent to La Fabrique du Arts Louis Vuitton for the miniature painting to be executed by Maryna Bossy. Twenty eight different colours which make up the painting are carefully applied to the space between the raised lips. This process takes some 32 hours of painting and an additional 8 hours in the oven.
The day/night disc is separately made at Voutilainen, and features hand engraved, and is enameled by hand. We note the additional touch of the dégradé colours of both the sun motif and moon motifs. Central to the hour ring is a medallion which is with the exceptional Voutilainen signature hand guilloché. The pattern chosen is hte Louis Vuitton “Damier” motif and is carried out using ancient machinery. On this central medallion is the engraved with the power reserve indicator in an arc below the 12 o’clock marker. The stylised joint names of Louis Vuitton and Voutilainen logos are merged into one single word proclaiming the partnership.
The movement: Caliber GMR 6
The movement is created by Voutilainen. Our suspicion is that this is caliber is based on the Voutilainen GMR, first shown in 2015. All the specification are in line with the GMR including the model name. However, unlike the traditional escapement of the original, the new GMR 6 uses an innovative dual escape wheel system to provide direct impulse to the single balance spring. The construction is a speciality of Kari, and has seen service in some of his watches. It requires less energy, resulting in a longer power reserve. It is also has higher stability and better longevity than the traditional Swiss anchor. This upgrade is why the 2015 movement has 250 parts with 28 jewels, while the new GMR 6 has 254 components and 32 jewels.
The movement finishing is typical of Voutilainen. Finnisage is close to the best haute horlogerie can offer, with absolutely the best hand finishing applied. The main plate and bridges are in German-silver, and judging from the hue of the plates to our naked eyes, we think the plates have received a plate of rhodium to deter patination.
But here too, the partnership is extended. The barrel cover features another multi-coloured miniature painting done in the same manner as the hour ring on the dial side. This intricate decoration is first machined by Voutilainen and then sent to La Fabrique des Arts Louis Vuitton to be hand painted, also by Maryna. The work takes about 16 hours of paint work, using 27 different colours and 27 distinct operations, including 5 kiln sessions with 8 hours in the oven.
Concluding thoughts
This is an amazing watch. Especially in the flesh. The watch exudes a certain je ne sai quois, that escapes my description ability. The specifications are simple enough: a blend of artistry with watchmaking. But the result is magnificent, deserving of a standing ovation. And can only come from passionate people, working together to produce a watch that can only reflect their love for watches. And for which too, we applaud this project. In addition, proceeds from the sale of this release will also go toward the LV Watch Prize, to help an aspiring independent to bloom and achieve greater heights. Another round of applause.
The price is high, more than half a million Euros is a huge ransom. But the fact that all 5 pieces were snapped up in double quick time says more about us who critique the price than the ones who happily hand over the money. Sadly, as magnificent as it is, this is not watch meant for watch nerds with limited budgets.
Artistry abound on this release. From the classy launch location in the magnificent resort of Amanpuri in Phuket, to the flawless execution of the launch itself, the intimate access to both Jean Arnault and Kari Voutilainen afforded to us, and the free access to the two prototypes which were made available to the media. All executed superlatively. Bravo LV for pulling this off.
Louis Vuitton x Voutilainen LVKV-02 GMT 6 Specifications
LVKV-02 GMR 6 WATP11
Limited edition of 5 pieces
Case
- Escale case: 52 components
- Diameter: 40.5 mm
- Thickness: 12.54 mm
- Between lugs: 20 mm
- Water resistance: 3 ATM (30 metres) – the watch is splash-resistant but should not be immersed
Dial
- Hand-guilloché gold dial
- Diamond-hour circle in miniature painting by La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton
- Second time zone disc in gold (24-hour format) with day/night indication engraved and enameled by hand
- Gold and blued-steel hands
Movement
- Manual-winding mechanical movement (GMR 6 calibre) manufactured, finished and assembled in the Voutilainen workshop. Two direct-impulse escapement wheels in blued steel
- Functions: hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve indicator, second time zone at 6 o’clock with day/night indication
- 254 components
- German-silver main plate and bridges
- Gold wheels
- White gold barrel cover with miniature painting
- 32 jewels
- Diameter: 30 mm
- Thickness: 6 mm
- Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour, balance wheel equipped with rose gold adjustment weights
- Balance spring with Phillips terminal curve and Grossmann inner curve
- 65h of power reserve
Strap
- Two straps:
- Fabric strap: grey fabric with edging on top, brown leather lining
- Exo strap: anthracite alligator with edging on top, black leather lining
Buckle
- Platinum pin buckle
Trunk
- High watchmaking trunk in Monogram Eclipse canvas, hand-painted with a design reflecting the watch dial
