Many collectors are perhaps not familiar with Leica as a watch maison, though we guess hardly anybody will have trouble with Leica as a camera manufacturer. But yet, Leica’s ambition to be able also play in the watchmaking space is legit. Here is our review of the just released Leica ZM 12 and the reasons why it ought to be at least a consideration in the entry level luxury market.
New and reviewed: Leica ZM 12
The Leica ZM 12 will be available in four options at launch: the ZM 12 Steel Silver Grey, the ZM 12 Steel Olive Black and ZM 12 Titanium Chocolate Black will be available globally at Leica Stores, the Leica Online Store and authorised dealers starting February 27, 2025. And the Leica ZM 12 Steel Blue Orange will be available starting April 17, 2025. The recommended retail price will be starting at SGD 9,740 including GST.
YouTube Video Review
Leica, watchmaking and camera manufacture
Watchmaking and camera manufacture share some common goals. After all, a camera is a precision timing device, which uses a movement mechanism to open and close a shutter system. The precision required is very high, even for mechanical cameras, which typically can time the shutter for a 2 second exposure, all the way to 1/1000th of a second. Thus mechanical cameras share quite a lot of common skills in its creation with mechanical watches. In 1938, Jaeger-LeCoultre, which we know as a watchmaker for watchmakers, created an exquisite camera known as the Compass. It is embellished with decorations we have come to know and love from the watchmaking industry, making it a gem to look at. And as JLC also has expertise in mechanical constructions, this is put to good use in a camera which feels good to operate as well as one which has the essential precision to operate well. Camera manufactures like Alpa, for example started out a Pignons S.A. making components for watchmaking, before pivoting over to making high end cameras in the 1950s.
But for Leica, the legitimacy goes beyond that. Ernst Leitz (1843-1920), the founder of the company was trained as a watchmaker in Neuchâtel as a young man before returning to Wetzlar. in 1864, where he was recruited by the town’s Optics Institute. In the early 20th century, the Leitz company grew to be the world’s number one producer of microscopes.
Under his son’s tenure as the owner of the company, one of their engineers, Oskar Barnark created the world’s first 35mm still camera in 1925 – the Leica I, making cameras small and light enough to be everyday carry. The Leica cameras began its illustrious history and was adopted by war correspondents like Frank Capa and famous street photographers like Henri-Cartier Bresson. Leica is the concatenation of Leitz Camera.
The ZM 12 case, dial, hands, bracelet
The watch is the fourth model in the Leica watch collection. The first two are the ZM 1 and ZM 2 (the name change to ZM (“Zeitmesser” meaning “time measuring device” in German) from L is due to an issue with naming rights. The movements for the ZM 1 and ZM 2 are hand wound and made by Lehmann Präzision, who also machines the case and dial. The ZM 11 which followed is an automatic winding watch presented in a 41mm case with a sweep seconds hand and date. The ZM 11 movement is made by Chronode, while the case, dial and bracelet are made by partners in Switzerland. The ZM 11 and ZM 12 are thus Swiss Made products and not Made in Germany like the ZM 1 and ZM 2.
The ZM 12 is a three hand watch, and is the entry level to the Leica Watch universe, and features a small seconds hand at the 6 o’clock position. The case size is smaller than the ZM 11, and is now 39mm. The movement is also made by Chronode. The entire case is matte finished. We rather like the finish, which is fingerprint proof and does not mark easily. The case design is a very sleek, lugless type. In our review sample, the case is machined out of titanium, and the round bezel flows organically into studs which act in place of lugs. The movement is made by Chronode in Le Locle with the final assembly and final testing and packaging is done in a partner in the Swiss Jura, using components (case, dial, bracelet) made by Swiss partners.
Editor’s Note: This article was edited at 1400hr SGT February 28 to reflect this. We were alerted by Henrik Ekdhal, the Managing Director Ernst Leitz Werkstätten GmbH in charge of Leica’s lifestyle and accessories division where the watches come under. He told us that the ZM 1 and ZM 2 have the “Made in Germany” label as the watches are manufactured by Lehmann and final assembly in Wetzlar. But the ZM 11 and ZM 12 are marked as “Swiss Made”, as the movement is by Chronode, and the case, dial, bracelet are made by several partners in Switzerland. Assembly is also in another Swiss company, not far from Chronode. Thus the ZM 11 and ZM 12 product lines are made in Switzerland.
The review sample has a chocolate black dial which is dual layered, and look like it is ruled with lines looking like gadroons. The dial has a design layout with the familiar 3 hand architecture. The markers are bar numerals with gold frames. The hands are also bar shaped, also with raised gold frames. Within the raised frames are in-filled with SuperLuminova which look a creamy off-white in good light, and glow green in the dark.
Lume on the dial is quite good, with a nice SuperLuminova green glow in the dark, allowing time to be read easily and with precision.
The dial is a dual-layered, and precision machined by Lehmann. The raised portions do provide some level of interplay with light from various angles, and some of the models do exploit the vertical parts to show a flash of colour at certain angle of views. In our review sample, nomenclature on the dial is kept simple and clear, with just a two line brand proclamation of “LEICA WETZLAR” which is precision pad printed in gold paint. This is a nice harmonious echo to the gold framed indices and hands.
The bracelet and strap are quick release style. And the system chosen by Leica is rather interesting. At the edges of the lug ends of the case, are two buttons, marked with red dots, and look like shutter release buttons. These operate the quick release system for the strap and bracelet. The positive is that this is a very secure system, and very easy to use without any tools. The negative is perhaps that it needs special straps as part of the mechanism is carried on the strap side. But nevertheless, we see this feature as a huge benefit, and is able to transform the watch from a rubber strap to a fabric one or to a metal bracelet in double quick time.
A cute accessory to display the watch is a mount with the Leica M-mount female attachment. This can carry a C-stand with a corresponding M-mount male attachment which can be used to display the watch, or alternatively can be used as a stand to display a Leica M lens. A glass bell protects the contents.
The ZM 12 movement: Leica Calibre LA-3002
The movement is made by Chronode. The Calibre LA-3002 used in the ZM 12 is the same base movement as the Caliber LA-3001 used in the ZM 11. The LA-3001 movement is based on Chronode’s calibre C102. But Jean-François Mojon tells us that he spent an additional year of development work to produce a new caliber for Leica, with distinctive features such as being able to achieve an accuracy of -4 to +6 seconds and a 60-hour power reserve.
Jean-François also told us that the essential difference is as the ZM 11 features a central seconds hand and a date while the ZM is a 3 hand design, this is base movement is slightly modified. An additional gear train is placed on the dial side, after removing the date ring, and this is used to bring the seconds information from the fourth wheel to the subsidiary seconds hand just above the 6 o’clock position. This increases the overall height of the movement by 0.8mm.
The bridges on the LA-3002 remain exactly the same as the LA-3001, the only difference being the engraving that spells out the caliber number and other identification details. There is no structural modifications made to the movement from ZM 11 to ZM 12. The design language of the raised lip on the bridges which are linear brushed matte finished with the interior of the bridges which have a textured, grained finish is retained. Of course, the finnisage is closer to the ZM 11 than the ZM 1 or ZM 2, which is hand wound and features a somewhat brighter overall aesthetic. The overall finishing of the movement is highly industrial, and at a high engineering level. And gives the confidence that the watch will run without any issues.
The competitive landscape
The competitive landscape of a simple three hand, design oriented watch with an exclusive movement restrains us to a small patch. The closest inhabitants we see are perhaps the Bell & Ross BR-X5 with the Kinissi movement, coming in at roughly the same price ballpark of circa SGD 10k. But the BR-X5 has the additional power reserve indicator. Another consideration might include the various Tudor like the Pelagos FXD (less expensive at SGD 6.17k ), but the design oriented element is not quite at the same level. The various Breitlings like the Avenger Series use standard ETA movements, so consider them to be outside this patch. We might also consider Nomos who makes watches from as low as SGD 4.2k to as high as SGD 7k, with perhaps the closest option might be the Tangente Sport Neomatik 42 Date Marine (SGD 7k in a titanium case and bracelet), though that is only available in 42mm case, so perhaps a closer competitor to the ZM 11. But the Nomos boasts of a 1000ft water resistant rating (the ZM 11 and ZM 12 are rated to 100m), and is a watch intended for light diving duties. Another consideration might be the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 (SGD 16.6k), though the Ingenieur has magnetic protection as an additional feature.
As we have addressed in our original review and restated in the Singapore release, what the target market for these watches are intended for. But nonetheless, after spending time with the ZM 12, we are persuaded that we were perhaps too tough in our initial assessment. We now feel there is a level of sincerity and legitimacy to the ZM 11 and ZM 12. And that these offerings should be part of the consideration of a collector looking to buy a design oriented watch in the circa SGD 10k price class. These are legit options.
Concluding thoughts
Overall, the Leica ZM 12 is a nice watch. The various colour options are all equally valid in the visual presentation, but I am particularly partial to the review sample, which is the Titanium Chocholate Black version, especially with the titanium bracelet. Very cool vibes, and as I said in the video, mildly reminiscent of the IWC Porsche Design Ocean 2000 of old. The visuals and of the entire watch gets a big approval from us. The typical no-nonsense Leica/German DNA is evident. Minimalist labelling, almost purist approach, with a Bauhaus type aesthetic. The 39mm case fits the wrist beautifully, and the bracelet is supple, while looking good. We did find the fabric strap, which looks gorgeous in silver to match the titanium case, is a bit stiff…perhaps it will soften with time and more wear.
Leica has a legitimate claim to watchmaking, and we think that partnering Jean-François Mojon of Chronode is a great step forward. The movement is excellent, and represents perhaps the least expensive entry into watches with movements made by Chronode.
While we do not think that Leica watches will become a major player in the watchmaking industry, as we understand it, that is not their aim either. They want to be able to propose to the watch collector, be a viable alternative option to the traditional choices. And we think, it is a valid consideration. Especially when the product is so well designed, has excellent aesthetics and very well engineered and manufactured. The ZM 12 gets our approval!
Leica ZM 12 Technical Specifications
Caliber Leica LA-3002 in collaboration with Chronode SA, Switzerland
Movement type Mechanical automatic, self-winding * Jewels 38 jewels * Frequency 28,800 A/h, 4 Hz
Power reserve Approximately 60 hours * Precision -4/+6 seconds per day, measured in 5 positions
Classic function Hours, minutes, and small second at 6 o‘clock
Complications none
Special feature Easy-Change System (strap change)
Material 316L stainless steel or grade 5 titanium
Case diameter 39 mm
Thickness 13 mm
Weight Stainless-steel case: 66 g | Titanium case: 52 g
Water resistance 100 m | 10 ATM (ISO 2281 standard)
Crown Screw-down crown, with quick date change and time-setting mode
Dial Dual-layered dial with inner bezel and printed minute track
Front glass Double-domed sapphire crystal, with hardened anti-reflective coating on both sides
Case-back glass Single-domed sapphire crystal, with inside laser print
Hands and indices Indices and hands filled with Swiss Grade A Super-LumiNova
Bands Vulcanized rubber straps | Fabric straps * Integrated 316L stainless-steel or grade 5 titanium bracelet * Buckle Rubber and textile straps: Leica tang buckle with logo engraving, in 316L stainless steel or grade 5 titanium * Metal bracelets: Butterfly clasp with 2 pushers in 316L stainless steel or grade 5 titanium
Warranty 5-year international warranty
