Hautlence continues to develop their new design language with lugless case construction with the new Helix, showcasing a central tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring and new fangled curved hands on a bi-retrograde hour and minute display.
We met up with Brand Manager Cedric Joos and Chairman Guillaume Tetu recently where they showed us this novelty. Here is our hands on impressions review.
New and Reviewed: Hautlence Helix Series 1
The Hautlence Helix Series 1 Ref. CD51-TI00 retails at CHF 75,000. Limited Edition of 28 pieces.
The case, dial and hands
In the wake of the current trend of being brutalist, the new Hautlence case and design language is decidedly so. The elements are laid out, almost bare, and safe for the blue accents on the flanks which carry the hour and minute indicators as well as the curved hands, the entire watch is monotone grey-silver. The same colour scheme is carried on to the back, where the movement is visible through the sapphire glass.
There are two separate and distinct eye-catching and horologically important elements on the dial side. The first is the double retrograde display. On the left is the showing the minutes from 00 to 60 and on the right the hours from 01 to 12. The markers themselves are blocks of Globolight, a luminescent ceramic material which is 3 dimensional and glows in the dark.
The hands are now curved numbers with white tips to indicate the hours and minutes. However, in the prototype we saw, this tip is too small. Rendering the ability to read the time a challenge. Especially in low light conditions. But Cedric and Guillaume assured us that the production watches will have more prominent pointers, but did not elaborate if this will be larger marks, or more contrast or both.
And the second takes place of glory right center stage. Riding proud above the rest of the dial elements is the Precision Engineering (Hautlence sister company in the MELB group) is the tourbillon. Not just any tourbillon, but one with a cylindrical hairspring and with a flying construction. The tourbillon is mesmerising to watch, and takes my breath away. The sapphire crystal offers some dimensional relief by lifting gently from the edges so that the center part clears the raised tourbillon.
The movement
The movement is the in-house produced D51 automatic caliber. This movement is based on the work done by sister brand H. Moser on their HMC 811. Though the D51 is a further development of the HMC 811, it does share the escapement, including the flying tourbillon with its cylindrical hairspring. The HMC 811 is found on the Moser Pioneer Cylindrical Tourbillon and the Moser x MB&F Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon.
The tourbillon itself is of particular interest for its aesthetic beauty. And makes its statement right in the middle of the dial.
The additional development work over the Moser base is the bi-retrograde hour and minute indication system, as well as the new micro-rotor automatic winding mechanism.
The movement finishing is judged to be adequate. It surpasses the mundane engineering requirements by a large margin, but stope short of the highest haute horlogerie levels. What it lacks is mainly cosmetic finishing, which makes a high end watch captivating. But what it has is the brutalist theme, carried over to the finishing…leaving some surfaces rather bare, but sufficient for engineering hygiene.
Competitive landscape
In terms of the competitive landscape, we see now many occupants, and certainly none if we track all the features of the Helix Series 1. This particular combination of the flying tourbillon with cylindrical hairspring with bi-retrograde display in an automatic winding watch with micro rotor and open worked dial is perhaps unique. But if we have missed out something, do let us know.
Concluding thoughts
Overall, the Hautlence Helix Series 1 is a rather beautiful watch. The elongated case design without lugs makes it an easy fit for even smaller wrists. As usual, it presents no issues on my flat 7.5″ wrists, and sits very comfortably. The titanium case make it very light, adding to the wear comfort.
CHF 75k is by no means small money, but for what it offers, we think the Helix Series 1 is a better proposition than many of the other tourbillons. The features are quite compelling, viz, flying tourbillon, raised for prominence, the cylindrical hairspring, the double retrograde display and the open worked dial and make a persuasive argument. Of course, the decision is yours and yours alone, but this watch ticks quite a lot of boxes for me, and gets a high recommendation.
Hautlence Helix Series 1 Specifications
CASE Case middle and bezel: satin-finished and polished grade 5 titanium * Crown: polished grade 5 titanium with black rubber ring, engraved HAUTLENCE logo * Crystal: extra-hard domed sappphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment * Back: sapphire crystal, engraved «HAUTLENCE», «10 ATM», «Suisse» * Dimensions: 37.0 x 45.10 x 11.8 mm / 10.5 mm without sapphire crystal * Water resistance: 10 ATM
DIAL Skeletonized and rhodium-plated brass with vertical finishing * Hours and minutes displays: rhodium-plated brass with blue ALD coating * Globolight® hours and minutes numerals
CALIBRE D51 automatic mechnical movement with microrotor * Retrograde hours and minutes * Central cylindrical tourbillon * Power reserve: minimum 65 hours * Alternances: 21,600 vibrations/hour * Number of components: 235 * Number of jewels: 36
STRAP Gray rubber strap with navy blue textile inserts * Buckle: grade 5 titanium * Quick strap release function
LIMITED EDITION 28 pieces
