New and Reviewed: Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar

Gerald Charles released a new perpetual calendar to their popular Masterlink collection. This is a major release with a new form shaped movement. We met up with Frederico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles and he explained the novelty to us. Here is also our hands on review.

New and Reviewed: Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar

The Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar retails as follows:p

• Ref. ML11.0-TNBR-TNSB-BR00SR-TNDP (fumé dial) retails at CHF 63,000 before taxes / SGD 112,300 with GST
• Ref. ML11.0-TNBR-TNSB-SP31PS-TNDP (sapphire dial) retails at CHF 70,000 before taxes / SGD 124,700 with GST

YouTube introduction by Frederico Ziviviani

The case, dial and hands

Two versions are released, both in Grade 5 Titanium case. One is with a fumé dial, and the other is with a sapphire dial. Both are cased in the Masterlink case with Masterlink bracelet. To accomodate the perpetual calendar movement, the watch case is enlarged slightly. Up from 38mm nominal square to 40mm nominally square. The thickness also increased slightly from 7.9mm to just 10mm, which is still a very impressive number for a perpetual calendar with automatic winding. Especially for a case with a 100m water resistance rating.

The basic Masterlink case shape remains. The nominally square case with upper two corners cut linearly, and the bottom executed in a curve, with an additional curve embedded. The case is a masterstroke (pun intended) in design, and features what the maison calls Gerald Genta’s chin. The bracelet is similarly beautiful, and features straight 3 links on the upper part, and with curved links on the lower, meeting in the middle with an invisible clasp. The clasp does have wings extended below to allow ease of opening. And there are no visible screw fasteners, all the attachments are hidden. The case and bracelet are finished in three different finishing – dark blasted, matte and high polish titanium. This creates dimensionality to the watch, is very aesthetically pleasing with a nuanced look to the watch.

On the fumé dial, the design relies on the two level construction of the automatic time only Masterlink. But the anthracite grey dial has a dégradé tone, being lighter in the middle while the outer edges are dark. I find this to be particularly attractive, especially as it is applied on the two level dial construction.

In the sapphire dial version, the entire movement plate below is visible, with the indication markings and hands seeming to float above the gold hued movement.

Legibility is exceptional for a perpetual calendar with the standard sub-dial display. The Leap Year indicator is a simple arc at about the 2 o’clock position, showing the non leap years as white lines and the leap year in red. This disc makes one rotation every 4 years. Legibility is also helped by having the moon display on the same subdial, and concentric to the rather large date display. The moon phase and date are on the same level, and this also help to manage the thinness of the movement.

The moon phase wheel has 135 teeth which updates the large photorealistic moon display twice a day rather than the more common 59 teeth standard display which updates the position once a day. The moon phase accuracy is offered at a high level of 1 day of deviation for approximately 100 years.

On the wrist, the 40mm case wears very nicely, Both on my 180mm flat wrist and on Stanley’s 165mm rounder wrist. And the triumvirate finishing techniques applied to the case and bracelet makes for an aesthetic which looks very rugged and delicately elegant at the same time.

The movement: Caliber GCA 11000

And the movement is special. This is a new movement which Gerald Charles label as in-house Caliber GCA 11000. The movement stands out for two principal features. First the movement is ultra thin at only 4.6mm. Thin enough that when cased, the case is only 10mm. And second, and perhaps more significantly, this is a form shaped movement,. And not just any form shape, but one which is complicated to follow the shape of the Masterlink case.

The design of the movement is not only special for its shape, but also in the way the bridges are laid out. The layout is very aesthetically pleasing. With both the regular linear Côtes de Géneve as well as curved ones. Curved côtes are particularly challenging to execute, and it is done very well, with even, regular spacing and slopes in the GCA 11000. Further, as explained by Frederico, the movement bridges are laid out like the city of Geneva. Watch the video to find out more !

All Gerald Charles watches achieve a water resistance rating of 100m, and this new Perpetual Calendar does as well. But more than just water resistance, the number is also usually associated with ruggedness of a movement. Dive watches, or sports watches are often used as tool watch. And though far be it that a luxury watch like any Masterlink be called a tool watch, it is built to survive the knocks of a road warrior in everyday tasks. And can support the role as a tool watch. For a Perpetual Calendar, being rugged adds considerable challenges. And Gerald Charles chose to solve the issue of fragility by using levers which are very strong, but also machined to be very thin and flexible.

We judge the finishing to be very good, fitting for a watch at the haute horlogerie levels. All aspects are well executed, including all the anglage, the magnificent curves and sharp outward angles. If we nitpick, we might have preferred the movement to have some sharp internal angles, but as it is, the movement looks beautiful. Especially as it is finished in a gilt, which makes a marvellous shimmer and glow.

Competitive Landscape

This a high level bar. A titanium sporty watch with integrated bracelet with an automatic perpetual calendar is indeed high ground. In a quick survey, we found none meeting all the special characteristics of the GC Masterlink Perpetual Calendar. But as an academic exercise, we propose three alternatives. None with a form movement. Only one is available in a titanium case and bracelet. And none who are able to boast a three different kinds of finishing on the case and bracelet.

First the Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5740/1G-001 in white gold. This Genta design carries a retail price tag of SGD 243k. Patek has decided to stop all Nautilus in steel, and other than special executions, they also do not offer any in titanium. Also the Ref. 5740 was never offered in any metal other than gold or platinum. But as a comparison, the dial layout of the Patek is more classical, and thus more crowded and thus less legible. The round C. 240 Q is offered as a thin movement with a micro-rotor.

Next, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar (CHF 137k). We do not have a review of this Ref. 26586TI.OO.1240TI. 01, which is executed in full titanium, but this watch is a derivative of the Royal Oak RD#2 Ultra Thin Perpetual Calendar (POA only). This is a top level offering from AP. The case is also a Gerald Genta design, albeit a simpler execution. Case thickness of only 6.2mm with a movement at only a miniscule 2.89mm thick, allowing it to claim the title of the world’s thinnest automatic perpetual calendar. For both the movement and the watch fully encased breaks the previous record for thinness in an automatic perpetual calendar. The C.5133 is, however the conventional round shape. and it carries a full rotor.

And a third to consider is the Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin. It retails for about EUR 50k in steel, with no titanium variant offered. But this is probably closer to the price range of the Gerald Charles than the aforementioned two. The Piaget display is also classical and legibility of all the indicators are good. The C. 1255P movement powering it measures only a svelte 4mm including the perpetual module. The movement is round, but this ultra-thin feature allows the case to measure only 8.65mm thick case.

Concluding thoughts

This is a superb next step for Gerald Charles. Barely 3 years since the release of the first time only automatic Masterlink, they have followed up with another masterstroke in the form of a perpetual calendar. Perhaos it is only a matter of time, that the complication comes to the Masterlink. And today is the day. But Gerald Charles pulls out all the stops. A quantième perpétuel which is form shaped, especially one as complex as this is probably the first ever. Couple this with a movement showing through a clever display layout that allows excellent legibility. A masterful design that allows the complicated indications of a full perpetual calendar – day, date, month, day of week and leap year to be read easily.

On the wrist, it is beautiful. Both the sapphire model or the fumé one, though as a traditionalist, my preference leans slightly to the anthracite dégradé dial. I particularly love the two level design, where the upper is like a grille over a bottom plate. Both finished in smoked ruthenium graduating from a brighter center to a dark peripheral.

Positioning wise, we find the Gerald Charles Perpetual Calendar to have no direct competition. Offerings from the more traditional maisons like Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are much higher in price bracket and not offered in titanium.

Overall, this a watch which we can easily fall in love with. The aesthetics are beautiful. The technical features excellent and the finishing superb. The feel of the very light watch is fabulous on the wrist, and the way the bracelet is supple to wrap around feels very comfortable. If the price is within your budget, we highly recommend a deep dive look at the Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar.