Its been 20 crazy years since Max Büsser ventured out on his own after a successful stint in Harry Winston. And the madness continues. The MB&F brand brings innovation, not only in sculptures that tell time, and amazing calibres, but also in the way they honour and treat customers, retailers and the media.
MB&F celebrates 20 years of Madness with special releases
The journey began in 2005, when Max Büsser and a few brave friends went to realise a dream of creating a revolution in time keeping. Max had always dreamt of owning his own brand. And after a very successful stint at Harry Winston where he created the Opus project, he sketched out his ideas to pitch a watch which did not exist yet, and for a brand which is unknown then.
He found success with a few retailers: The Hour Glass (Singapore), Westime (Los Angeles), Ahmed Seddiqi (Dubai), Ghadah (Kuwait) and Chronopassion (Paris). They bought into Max and paid the 30% up front for the promise. The watch remained as a concept for the next two years, where Max worked furiously, mostly alone in his apartment, to create this independent maison. And it was to become one of the most influential independents in the market.
The first release was the HM1, with its figure of 8 case shape, with the flying tourbillon taking center stage. All the odds were stacked against it then. Except for the confidence of the original retailers. And gingerly Max ventured. The HM1 was an amazing success.
Some highlights
We have covered many of the watches at launch. Here are some of them over the years.
The HM3, Frog (2010) was an icon of the maison.
Here we present the HM4 at launch in 2010 with our portrait of Max then. Max told us that HM4 was his most outrageous yet. A timepiece, strapped on the wrist, which did not even look like a watch. Here is the HM4 at launch, and Max in 2010.
And the HM11, the Architect, with its rotating base and room as arms. An imagery of the house, firmly implanted. Here is the HM11 and Max in 2023.
Max also told us that the creation of the LM1 was the next big step. As till its release, MB&F has made its name as a maison with watches depicted in the non-classical round case. He had feared that for the LM1 was too classical for those who loved his horological sculptures, but too outrageous for classical watch lovers. He proved himself wrong and right. The LM1 was a huge success, he was right in the design. And he was wrong that it would not be accepted.
Max also shared his vision for continuity. And as MB&F enters its third decade, Max and Eric Giroud who had jointly designed the timepieces till date recruited Maximilian Maertens as co-lead in creating projects. The first Büsser-Maertens wristwatch is due in 2026. Max also made a special mention of the collaboration with Stephen McDonnell. While he helped to bring the first HM1s to life in 2007, he broke through with the LM Perpetual, a rethink of the perpetual calendar. And this was followed by another exceptional watch – the LM Sequential. This era also ushered in the move to make the watches life-proof with 80m of water resistance.
Also in the front of continuity, in August 2024, Chanel became a new “Friend” of the brand, acquiring a 25% stake. This brings some form of financial security without compromising independence. Chanel has been quietly sowing similar seeds in others in the industry, including F.P.Journe, Romain Gauther, Bell & Ross and in Kenissi.
The 20th Anniversary Special Releases
For the 20th anniversary, MB&F chose to thank their communities of watch lovers with a raffle. With 20 watches to be won. Here is how:
A total of 20 watches will be raffled. In two 10 piece limited editions that will not be commercialised. 10 LM101 Longhorn and 10 M.A.D. 1S models will be drawn.
For the LM101 Longhorn 20th Anniversary pieces, these will be raffled through a first draw. All registered Tribe members who have entered their watches in the registry will be included. The watches will be awarded as drawn. And winners will not only get the watches free (!), but will also get an all expenses trip to M.A.D. House in Geneva to collect the watches. What an amazing way for a brand to give back to its supporters. And the first we have ever seen. Ever.
For the M.A.D. 1S 20th Anniversary pieces, these will also be raffled. All who have submitted their names in M.A.D. Editions over the years will be entered.
Both raffles will take place in October and will be supervised by a bailiff to ensure fairness.
“Our dozens of different Machines born over the last two decades allowed us all together to partake in what we love most: to create. To transform ideas into meticulously innovative hand finished sculptures. To find joy in working together. To build a community”, says Maximilian Büsser, Founder & Creative Director of MB&F.
Amongst the few regrets I have from the last twenty years, one is that it was incredibly difficult to be generous when we were in survival mode. This 20th Anniversary allows us to say thank you to our entire community: our own team, the artisans we call Friends, our Tribe members, our retail partners, the growing M.A.D.Editions community… all without whom our ideas would have remained simply that: ideas”.
LM101 Longhorn 20th Anniversary
Launched in 2014, the LM101 series remains one of MB&F’s smallest and slimmest creations, with its 40mm case – yet features a strikingly three-dimensional, hand-finished movement, created with award-winning independent watchmaker Kari Voutilainen. As its “101” name suggests, LM101 focuses on the fundamentals of mechanical watchmaking: the signature “flying” balance wheel, which regulates precision; the power reserve, showing how much energy remains in the mainspring; and the display of time. Ten years on, LM101 has become one of MB&F’s most beloved Machines.
The LM101 Longhorn takes its name from its distinctive long lugs, also called horns. Previously, long horns have only been featured on three MB&F pieces, always for special occasions: the Pièce Unique LM1 sold for charity, and the limited LM Perpetual and Sequential Flyback Longhorn editions celebrating MB&F’s 20th Anniversary.
This LM101 20th Anniversary Edition features the other key elements of previous Longhorn pieces: a luminous sunburst rhodium-plated dial plate, black sub-dials, and distinctive blue hands. A special anniversary silver pad printing on the back sapphire crystal reads: “Fortune Favours the Bold”, as a reminder of the rewards that can be reaped by daring to take a chance – a value that is dear to MB&F.
M.A.D. 1S 20th Anniversary
The original M.A.D.1 was released in 2021, as a small-scale experiment to thank MB&F’s Friends and Tribe members. In the meantime it has evolved into a horological phenomenon: a parallel brand, M.A.D.Editions. Several versions have followed, including a GPHG award-winner, and in 2025 the second chapter, M.A.D.2.
The 20th Anniversary edition is based on the M.A.D.1S, the latest iteration of the M.A.D.1 series, featuring a slimmer case and lugs, a single cylinder and a Swiss Made LaJoux-Perret G101 base movement.
Aesthetically, to mark the occasion the M.A.D.1S 20th Anniversary takes its cues from its LM101 Longhorn counterpart. Roman numerals dress up the hours and minutes cylinder – a first for a M.A.D.Editions model. The colourway is the same combination of silver, black and a new blue ring under its bezel, subtly matching the blued hands of the LM101 Longhorn. The watch comes with the same light brown leather strap, bringing a touch of understated elegance. On the reverse, the case-back bears the engraving: “Fortune Favours the Bold”.
