M.A.D. 3 Vincent Calabrese is one of the stars of this year’s show. I handled both Tribe version as well as the Raffle version. Here is my hands-on impressions.
Handling impressions of the M.A.D. 3 Live from GWD26
The M.A.D. 3 Vincent Calabrese retails at CHF 3,900 + VAT.
Enter the Raffle for your watch here.
Hands-on: MB&F MAD 3
This project is collaboration between MB&F and Vincent Calabrese. The base movement is Calabrese’s Balladin, which is a wondering jump hour watch with a fluid animation when the hour changes. He created the movement some 20 years ago. And this MAD 3 release gave the MB&F team the opportunity to use the concept, but in a completely new movement.
“The goal was not to reproduce the original Baladin exactly as it existed before. Nor was it about turning the watch into a vintage reissue. The intention was more about preserving the spirit of Vincent Calabrese’s complication, while translating it into the M.A.D.Editions universe.”
What immediately attracts is the colour of the dial. And on closer examination, it does not disappoint. The dial is constructed from several parts. A white bombé style minute ring in sapphire is marked with a black minute track. This ring is coated in SuperLumiNova, and glows in the dark. The seconds are indicated by the long arrow tipped hand. The center part of the dial carries the colour – blue for the Raffle watch, and pink for the Tribe & Friends. Marked on the center disc is an arrow head which indicates the minutes, as the disc spins at 1 revolution an hour, and just below this arrow head is an aperture which displays the hour. At the top of each hour, this hour numeral changes to the next. The hour numeral is in black Arabic numeral over a white background as well as the triangle minute arrow head are also lumed. The transition from one hour to the next is not in a brutal jumping fashion, which Vincent hated, but in a smooth, fluid way.
The movement is based on the La Joux Perret G11 with the bi-directional wandering jumping hour with trailing minutes module which is developed in-house by MB&F. Movement finish is above par at this price level, but, of course, not haute horlogerie levels.
What is interesting is that below the full rotor, are inscribed the words ” “Il est assez aisé de plaire aux autres, bien plus ardu d’être fier de soi…”, which translates to, “It is fairly easy to please others, far more difficult to be proud of oneself.” An edict held close to Vincent’s heart. This engraving is partially blocked by the rotor, but in full spin, the phrase is revealed.
Spinning rotor on MAD 3
On the wrist, the 40mm case feels as it should. And as the case design is made by Eric Giroud, the comfort when wearing is excellent. The case also carries with it attention to detail that only experienced designers do not miss.
