In this episode, we discuss what is an independent watch brand, and make recommendations with 3 picks each from Robin, Stanley, and Peter to start your journey with a budget of USD 20k a watch. In fact, all the watches picked come in at well below that (about USD 10k), except for one.
Independent watchmaking: Start your journey with the best picks within a USD 20k budget
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Robin’s picks
The first watch picked by Robin is the Habring² Erwin ‘Tuxedo’. Perhaps Habring² is the epitome of an independent. Privately funded by Richard and his wife Maria, they work in horological isolation in their little atelier in the Austrian mountains. The watch carries a superb seconde morte complication, making it even more attractive.
Next, Robin picks the Kudoke K3. Perhaps not a coincidence that the Habrings and the Kudokes are close friends. The wives Maria and Ev are childhood friends, and the Kudokes still live in Dresden where Maria hails from. With the K3, the Kudoke brand enters the mainstream, but with a superb design featuring a sector cutout on the dial to show the hour hand. The movement carries the elaborate engravings and bridge layout which have become a signature of the Kudoke design.
Next up, Robin chooses the Sarpaneva x Moomin collaboration. Another very tiny maison, operating from Finland, Stephan Sarpaneva takes his inspiration from Nordic folk stories and produces this timepiece with colourful lume. Two versions were offered, one in a black and white motif and the other in full colour visible in good light. The colour version is already sold out.
Stanley’s picks
A tongue in cheek number, by Franck Muller. Debatable if Franck can be considered as an independent, but if we accept that, this is a very interesting choice. The collaboration with FR2, the Japanese streetwear brand is very on point, especially for a brand seeking to attract the younger crowd. The watch was released in January 2023, and was promptly sold out.
Singer Reimagined Heritage Piano Black
Another unusual choice. And rather than the more standard use of the Agengraphe movement, in this Heritage series, Singer Reimagined went back to their automobile reconstruction work and rebuilt a watch based on the Valjoux 236. The watch has classical good looks. And is a breath of fresh air. This one may potentially burst the USD 20k budget, depending on the exchange rate for the day.
Christiaan van der Klaauw Ariadne
And yet another unusual choice from Stanley. This is the Christiaan van der Klaauw Ariadne. The maison is famous for the astronomical displays on their watches, and perhaps has no peer in today’s market in this genre. But they also produce this rather more affordable Valjoux 7750 based chronograph. The watch does tip its hat to the astronomical roots, with the addition of a moonphase together with a complete calendar.
Peter’s picks
This list comprise of unconventional picks. For Peter’s first choice, he picks the Massena Lab x Raúl Pagès Noctograph. This is a simple three hand watch with a fabulous movement. The movement is designed by Raúl Pàges and is manufactured by partners under his supervision. At below CHF 10k, it is a remarkable value.
Next, also from an unusual source, but with the same reasoning. And his pick is the Leica ZM2. Access to the works of a higher end independent watchmaker at a more modest price. Here we have the movement made by Jean-François Mojon. Spectacular watch, which is hardy and suited for the urban jungle. Great looking too.
And finally, a maison which Peter has been bullish for the past couple of years. Ba111od delivers incredible value with their Swiss made tourbillons, and their latest Chapter 4 Infinity Flying Tourbillon is no different. And this time it debuts their first flying tourbillon as well as a moonphase display. Also new is that the dial side is very discreet, with a mysterious index-less dial and only minimal branding present. The movement is the work of one Olivier Mory of BCP Tourbillons and is an exceptional piece of watchmaking.
Bonus, as Chief Editor, sneaked in an additional pick. This is the Le Régulateur Tourbillon Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein. Movement is also by Olivier Mory, but presented in a more conventional bridged tourbillon but with the addition of the Silberstein signature regulator display.
Concluding thoughts
So there you have it, our picks for entry level independent watches. As we said, all bar one are circa the USD 10k mark, considerably less than the benchmark USD 20k. And with this modest budget, we covered the gamut of complications from chronographs to even tourbillons, and moonphase displays. What do you think of our picks, and what would you pick for yours. Also, tell us what you think you would define an independent watchmaker.
