Independent Alternatives: Watches from Secondary Brands of Independent Watchmakers

It is known that entering into the world of independent watchmaking is no easy task, given the relatively inaccessible price point.

However, is there a way to enjoy watches from independent watchmakers without breaking the bank? In recent years, we have seen independent watchmakers introducing secondary brands, to allow collectors to purchase their creations at a fraction of the price.

So, without any further ado, here are some of the brands which you may want to consider, if one is looking to get into the scene without splurging a good five-figure sum (minimally).

Kurono Tokyo

We begin with the Kurono Tokyo, a brand which debuted in 2019 and captured the attention of many watch enthusiasts.

Kurono Tokyo is Hajime Asaoka’s project, which aims to bring high quality watchmaking (with inputs from Hajime-san, no lees) to the masses. The Classic is the first piece from the Japanese watch manufacturer. The 37mm watch follows the classic Hajime style, with some hints of the Project Tsunami that was produced by the master watchmaker himself. The initial pieces were offered in two variants (Midnight Blue and Eggshell White), and they were limited to a run of 50 pieces each. The reception was overwhelming, considering that this is a handsome piece with great finishing. It is, after all, a piece that involves Hajime-san himself. Nobody will expect anything less than that.

The brand still continues to introduce new watches regularly, with the latest Jubilee Sensu EOL priced at a reasonable US$2,230 (approximately S$2,875). We certainly like what Hajime-san has done with the brand, and we are sure many collectors do share the same sentiment as well.

M.A.D. Editions M.A.D. 1

The M.A.D.Editions is a project by the effervescent Max Büsser, the brainchild behind the brand MB&F.

Launched in 2021 (and done so tightly under wraps), the M.A.D.Editions was initially a special project by Max for partners, friends, and current owners of MB&F. However, word soon got out and Max had eventually decided to make the watch available to the masses – although it is noted that getting an allocation has never an easy task.

What we like about M.A.D.Edition is that the watches are inherently cool. It is also the fact that one is able to own a creation of Max’s in a relatively accessible fashion, without having to break the bank and spend a mind-boggling six-figure sum for an MB&F timepiece. The latest creation – dubbed the M.A.D.2 – was created with Eric Giroud and it is priced at CHF 2,900 (approximately S$4,540). If one is looking to add more vibrancy into their watch collection, the M.A.D.Edition is certainly worth considering – assuming if you are able to get an allocation.

GRØNE Oldenzaal

We are big fans of Grönefeld, as well as the brand principals Bart and Tim. The watches that the Grönefeld brothers have produced are some of the most beautiful timepieces that we have ever seen, but the price points are a little far-reaching for mere mortals like most of us.

GRØNE Oldenzaal is the Grönefeld brothers’ secondary brand, introduced in 2024. The brand represents the brothers’ connection to heritage, and more importantly offering a commitment to accessibility. Its first watch – the Manueel One – is a three-hand watch that features signatures of Grönefeld watches, such as the tremblage two-step dial, highly polished batons, and a 1941-inspired case that was seen in the likes of both the Remontoire and Principia series.

Priced at €2,150 (approximately S$3,150), the Manueel One offers collectors a great timepiece with an excellent price point. It is also a great timepiece for a budding collector, who is looking for something different from the usual crowd.

S.U.F Helsinki

S.U.F Helsinki is Stepan Sarpaneva’s secondary brand, with timepieces that are less elaborate than his main eponymous brand. Interestingly, S.U.F Helsinki was founded in 2003, which makes it one of the pioneers in this category of watches.

The concept with S.U.F Helsinki is similar – the watches here still feature the flair and style of Sarpaneva’s timepieces, albeit with standard movements and less elaborated dial to reduce the price point. What we particularly like about S.U.F Helsinki’s timepieces is its design, which notably has a little touch of flamboyance and originality – a hallmark of Stepan’s watches.

The latest timepiece from S.U.F Helsinki is the Vetehinen, now with stone dials in the form of aventurine, lapis lazuli, and malachite. We like Stepan’s interpretation of a dive watch, and the inclusion of special stone dials definitely makes the watches a little more special (although, it deviates a little from a practicality standpoint). The watches are priced at €5,700 (approximately S$8,355).

Special Mention: Massena LAB & Raúl Pagès Noctograph

While Raúl Pagès does not have a secondary brand, he had collaborated on numerous occasions with William Massena (of Massena LAB) to produce great timepieces with a relatively accessible price point.

The Noctograph is the third timepiece from this partnership, which is said to be designed in parallel to Raúl’s own RP2 (although the similarities, notably, are not as obvious to the eye). The real treat – in our opinion – lies in the movement, in the form of Calibre M660. This movement was developed by Raúl himself, using the Valjoux 7750 as a base. It is quite a sight to behold, although we would note that the finishing is not done by Raúl (that would have driven the price point up by several folds).

The Noctograph is priced at US$8,875 (approximately S$11,445). As compared to the watches above, the Noctograph is noticeably more expensive. However, considering the price tag of the RP2, this is approximately 1/10th of it – which in relative terms offer more accessibility to Raúl’s eponymous marque.

Concluding Thoughts

While the watches from these secondary brands are not exactly gamechangers, they certainly offer collectors something different. This is especially for aspiring collectors who want to own watches from independent watchmakers, but are in no position to spend a minimum good five-figure sum for a timepiece.

Notably, most of the watches are quite sensibly priced as well. If one compares Kurono Tokyo or GRØNE to microbrands, we dare say that the secondary brands of Hajime-san and Grönefeld brothers are rather compelling in terms of what they offer. Notwithstanding, the fact that these watches have certain inputs from these master watchmakers (albeit to a certain degree) makes it a tad more interesting as well.

What are your thoughts on such secondary brands? Do you think these watches offer collectors more variety, or do you reckon that they dilute the branding of independent watchmakers? Do let us know your thoughts in the comments section below.