This year’s Geneva Watch Day turns out to be relatively more interesting than most of the other watch fairs in recent memory. There is this feeling that brands are perhaps no longer going through the motions, and they are paying more attention to what collectors are looking out for.

GWD26 Armchair Picks: Robin’s Top 3 choices, with musings on the scene

There are quite a fair bit of watches from this year’s event that would have made it on this list. That is the level of competition that we are talking about. However, to keep things fair, I will select only three pieces – each supported by my own opinions on why I chose the watch.

Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter

The first watch on my list is the Bvlgari Octo Finissimo Dual Time x Vianney Halter (picture above courtesy of Bvlgari).

When I first saw the watch on social media, I was immediately drawn by it. This is literally a collaboration that no one saw coming. Combining the now iconic Octo Finissimo case with the signature steampunk design of Vianney Halter is nothing short of being bold, and obviously it is going to be divisive. Personally, I thought this was quite a cool outcome. This is one where you can easily identify the design ethos of the two brands behind it, and interestingly the geometrical shapes of the Octo Finissimo worked very nicely with the riveted portholes which were a signature of Vianney Halter.

On the other hand, I acknowledge the view of some critics. The Octo Finissimo is meant to be elegant, and the watch is certainly the antithesis of it with the various apertures and individual indicators. However, no one can deny that this is cool.

This is what I personally like to see – where brands push boundaries to create something unexpected. I think it is fair to say that this Bvlgari has stolen the show for this year’s GWD.

M.A.D. 3 Vincent Calabrese

I have always been a fan of Max Büsser’s works, either in the form of his MB&F or M.A.D.Editions creations. The new M.A.D. 3, created in collaboration with the legendary Vincent Calabrese, certainly got me excited as well.

While the first two M.A.D.Editions were brilliant, it is always great to see a totally new piece from the brand. Vincent Calabrese is a name that perhaps might be more familiar with the older collectors, but it is nice to see his signature wandering jump hour coming back in the form of a new timepiece with Max Büsser. The timepiece is not too loud or ostentatious, yet it has that hint of mystery with the unusual hour indicator that makes it interesting enough.

With a retail price of CHF 2,900 (approximately SGD 4,554), the new M.A.D.3 offers collectors yet another compelling timepiece with a relatively decent value proposition. We reckon this is going to be another highly popular piece with collectors, and certainly one that might also shed light into the wonderful creations of Vincent Calabrese as well.

Frederique Constant Classics Moneta

Rounding up my selection is the Frederique Constant Classics Moneta.

Frederique Constant has been making brilliant timepieces with great value propositions over the years, and the Classics Moneta is no exception either. Here, we have a beautiful 38.5mm dress watch, with a manual-winding La Joux Perret movement, as well as a stunning dégrade dial.

In a world where prices of watches have been increasing consistently over the years, the retail price of CHF 1,995 (approximately SGD 3,133) is certainly welcoming. This is a handsome watch, and we have no doubt that this will be another piece that will be well loved by collectors.

Concluding Thoughts

There were many great timepieces that were launched in GWD 2026, although many were on the higher-end of the pricing scale. That is why – with the exception of the Bvlgari – that I have decided to select watches that are priced more modestly.

I think it is great that we are seeing more interesting pieces, and especially it is on the back of feedback from collectors. Collectors certainly do appreciate being heard. Let’s hope that this continues.