For the sophisticated gentleman: Six dress watches with a personality

When it comes to dress watches, collectors tend to lean towards the usual suspects – think Patek Philippe Calatrava, Vacheron Constantin Patrimony, or A. Lange & Söhne.

While these are no doubt great options, collectors are also looking towards dress watches that are less predictable. Or rather, they are also looking for dress watches that are a little different, to showcase their personality or style.

As such, we thought that we would like to explore the genre of dress watches a little deeper. In this week’s article, we are looking at exceptional dress watches that are a little under the radar. These watches have to be uncommon, with unique traits or interesting design cues that sets them apart from the rest of the crowd. What are some of the watches that we have chosen? Let us find out!

Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde

We begin the article with arguably one of the nicest novelties of 2024. Cue the magnificent Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde.

The 40.6mm Toric Petite Seconde may be a simple three-hand watch, but the devil lies in the detail for this particular timepiece. This watch features a beautiful coin-edge bezel, as well as a stunning textured dial that features the grené main treatment. On the reverse side, the new 27-jewel, 157-part Calibre PF780 is also quite a stunner especially with its rose gold bridges that are decorated with Côtes de Fleurier. All the minute executions – without a doubt – are done superbly, and we expect no less from this maison.

Priced at CHF45,000 (approximately S$68,810) for the rose gold variant, the Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Petite Seconde may be positioned towards the higher end of the scale. Nonetheless, there is so much to like about the watch (and its manual-winding movement), and this is certainly a great timepiece for someone who wants an exceptional dress watch that is under the radar.

Louis Vuitton Escale

In recent times, Louis Vuitton has been making waves with its new watches. The new Escale, launched in June 2024, is another timepiece from the luxury fashion house that is set to reinforce its intention to rock up the horological scene.

The new Escale is meant to be positioned as a timepiece-only dress watch, and at first instance it seems to have found the right recipes to make it work. The watch is available either in silver or blue textured dial, or a more enigmatic meteorite dial (as well as a black onyx dial version, with gem-setting, that is not shown in the picture above). Interesting touches include the lugs and crown, which are a nod to the details found on the exterior of a classic Louis Vuitton trunk. Finally, the Escale is fitted with the Calibre LFT023 – a stunning contemporary-looking movement designed by La Fabrique du Temps in conjunction with movement specialists Le Cercle des Horlogers.

The price of the Escale begins at S$38,500 for the rose gold model. While the Escale may not be everyone’s cup of tea, we thought that this is an interesting alternative as a dress watch – especially for collectors who are huge fans of the brand. It is also unique and interesting enough, which allows the Escale to set itself apart from its competitors.

Seiko Credor Eichi II

Next up, we have perhaps one of the finest watches to come out of Japan: The Seiko Credor Eichi II.

On paper, the Credor Eichi II seems like a simple piece. But this is where it gets interesting. The level of detail on the Eichi II is amazing, with immaculate touches all around. The flawless dial, for instance, is made of porcelain by Noritake – whose clients include the Japanese Imperial family. It is then painted by the artists at Seiko’s Micro Artisan Studio.

And then we get to the movement. The Caliber 7R14 is the pièce de résistance of this watch, with finishing techniques done at the highest level possible. These techniques include convex bevelling, engraving, flame-blued screws, anglage, and linear brush finishing.

The 39mm Eichi II, in rose gold, is priced at £40,000 (approximately S$63,160). We do love the purity of this piece, with the fine details being done at the highest level. If you have the means to afford one, we do reckon it is a highly compelling addition to any respectable collection.

Grönefeld 1941 Principia

Grönefeld – managed by brothers Bart and Tim Grönefeld – is a high-end independent watch manufacturer that readers of Deployant should be familiar with. We are big fans of the Dutch brothers’ work, and the Principia is one timepiece that showcases the prowess of the brand.

The Principia is Grönefeld’s attempt at a three-hand time-only watch, without any fancy complications unlike its predecessors. Despite being Grönefeld’s simplest offering, no expenses are spared in the creation of the timepiece. The 39.5mm case is highly sculpted, with a mixture of hollowed, concave recesses and convex surfaces. The movement – Calibre G-06 – is even more impressive; the architecture and finissage is par excellence. If there is one qualm, it will be the large gold rotor that obstructed a substantial part of the movement.

Since its introduction in 2018, the Principia remains a popular timepiece in the line-up. There have been numerous variants of the timepiece introduced over the years, and the Principia Special Edition for Sincere is certainly one of our favourites. This particular model was priced at S$61,890, with only 12 pieces available. Regardless, the standard models are no less stunning (although with a less opulent dial); there is a reason why Grönefeld is well-loved and greatly regarded by the community.

De Bethune DB25 “Starry Varius”

De Bethune is one of the independent brands that we have always held in high regard for its finishing and polishing techniques. Its design language, as well as its blued titanium components, are some of the key highlights of the watchmakers as well.

The DB25 “Starry Varius” is no exception, but the 42mm Grade 5 Titanium watch goes one level up with its bewitching centre dial. The centrepiece begins its life as a dull grey titanium plate, before it underwent rounds of polishing and heating to attain the vibrant shade of blue. Perforations are then made to attach the golden pins (and gold leaves), which culminates with a stunning rendition of the galaxy (or rather, part of it). Interestingly, the design can also be customised to match the owner’s preferences as well.

On the business end of the watch, the DB25 continues to shine with its movement. The watch is powered by the DB2005, and the manual-winding movement boasts an excellent power reserve of around 6 days. The finishing is impeccable as usual, which justifies the enormous price tag for a time-only watch. The last known retail price of the DB25 Starry Varius is CHF 60,000 (approximately S$88,189), and it is perhaps one of the best looking two-hand timepieces that is available in the market.

AkriviA Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain

We round up the article with the incredible AkriviA Rexhep Rexhepi Chronomètre Contemporain.

Rexhep Rexhepi is probably not a familiar name for anyone who is not well-versed in the scene of independent watchmaking, but this gentleman is rather special indeed. The 38mm Chronomètre Contemporain is one of the watchmaker’s latest collections, signed off in the name of the craftsman himself. This timepiece, also known as RRCC, is a neo-classical interpretation of the wristwatch, with a nuanced but graceful design that features plenty of sensual curves all around. The art deco dial – which is made of grand feu enamel – is a sight to behold as well.

The movement, however, is where the watch really shines. Driving the timepiece is the in-house Calibre RR-01, a manual-winding movement which boasts a power reserve of around 100 hours with a single barrel. We especially adore the symmetrical movement, and the incredible finishing that comes along with it. For some, the attention to detail on the Chronomètre Contemporain is virtually at the top of its game – not dissimilar to the likes of Philippe Dufour or Kari Voutilainen.

There is a new version of the RRCC, known as the RRCC II, which features a seconde morte mechanism. The base RRCC is priced at S$92,000 – but then again, how does one actually value perfection?

Concluding Thoughts

There are certainly more options out there for dress watches, aside from the traditional choices. Although collectors may have a very strict definition of what a dress watch is, we think the six watches that we have chosen should fit the bill.

The six watches that we have chosen today certainly have a certain flair to it. Granted, most of them are priced on the higher end of the scale, but there are certainly good reasons to justify the premium (although, not everyone will agree). We can say that these watches exhibit traits that many will deem to be highly desirable and are present only within the higher echelons of watchmaking.

So, what are your thoughts on our selection today? What are the watches that you think also deserve a spot on the list? Let us know in the comments section below.