When we think of watches, there are certainly a few brands that would immediately come to mind. But what if we cast the net a little wider and explore beyond the usual watch manufacturing brands?
For today’s article, we are looking at watches from non-traditional watch manufacturers. These are brands where the primary product, or what they are known for, is not timepieces.
So, what are some of the watches that fit into this category? Let us find out!
Leica ZM 12
We begin the article with one of the latest novelties from the famed camera manufacturer Leica. Cue the excellent ZM 12.
The ZM 12 is the fourth model in the Leica watch collection, and it is perhaps the most affordable entry point for the brand. The 39mm timepiece is Leica’s answer to the sports watch category, with a focus on both the quality and execution. It features a rather minimalistic and simple design, which is a nod to the design language of its camera. Additionally, the watch is powered by a movement manufactured in collaboration with Chronode, who is known for producing exceptional movements for brands such as HYT, MB&F, and Czapek.
Prices for the ZM 12 begin at S$9,740. While it is not exactly modest in its pricing, it does still offer good value when it is compared against peers such as the Louis Vuitton Tambour or IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40. We do think Leica is making great strides in its timepiece department, and we can only hope that they will continue on this strong momentum.
Louis Vuitton Escale
Next, we have a series of magnificent timepieces from Louis Vuitton, with the refreshed Escale collection.
The new Escale, launched in the second half of 2024, is the brand’s answer to dress watches (albeit with a little playful twist). Fitted with a tasteful 39mm case, the Escale focuses a lot on details, which includes the various stone or textured dials, octagon crown, and tasteful lugs which alludes to the brass brackets of its iconic trunks. As an icing on the cake, the self-winding movement – designed by La Fabrique du Temps – is also quite a sight to behold.
We expect nothing less from Louis Vuitton, and the Escale certainly delivered. The prices are a little on the steeper end though, with a starting point of S$39,500 for the pink gold model. Nonetheless, the Escale is an exciting addition to the line-up, and it certainly echoes the brand’s intention in the horological scene.
Wempe Chronometerwerke Tonneau
Wempe may be a name that is known in Europe for distributing watches, but it is also a watch manufacturer for the uninitiated too.
The Wempe Chronometerwerke Tonneau, in our opinion, is one of the best watches that was produced by the German watch retailer. This particular model features a tonneau case, with sensuous curves all around. The watch is then paired with a relatively simple-looking dial, with Arabic numerals and a sub-seconds dial at the 6 o’clock position.
The watch uses the NOMOS Theta movement, with excellent finishing throughout. It even includes gold chatons and a hand-engraved balance cock, which are features that are noticeably present only in the high-end of watchmaking. All these at its original price point of €3,950 (approximately S$5,870) is an incredible steal (although this is eons ago) – and one that we will not hesitate to purchase, if it wasn’t for the fact that the model has been since discontinued. Talk about great value.
Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur
For some collectors, Hermès is perhaps not an unfamiliar name within the scene. However, for the majority of the people, the brand is still often associated with its luxurious Birkin handbags – more than anything else.
Over the years, the famed luxury brand has produced some incredible timepieces that can easily stand up to the traditional watch manufacturers. One of the examples is the stunning Hermès Arceau Le Temps Voyageur, which features a wandering sub-dial and the incredibly useful world time complication. We especially like the concept of the wandering sub-dial, which lends a really poetic and original touch to this timepiece.
The self-winding watch is available in 38mm and 41mm variants, and prices begin at €23,650 (approximately S$34,090). Overall, we think that this is a brilliant piece, and we are surely keen to see how far Hermès can push with this idea.
Degussa Limited Edition Palladium 2016
We move on to a brand that is more synonymous with the precious metal market more than anything else – Degussa.
Degussa has been producing watches for a while now, albeit the offerings were nothing to exactly shout about. However, once in a while, the precious metal retailer does produce some interesting timepieces – such as the limited-edition palladium watch that was introduced in MunichTime 2015. The watch, which features a very subtle and classic design, features a rare palladium case and an exceptional movement in the form of the UWD C.33.1. The latter is very beautiful, with all the traditional finishing touches done nicely.
While watch collectors may be unwilling to take a leap of faith with brands that have little provenance, we do feel that the quality and movement does more than make up for it. Anyhow, Degussa only produced 25 examples of this watch, and chances of spotting this is exceeding rare – let alone the opportunity to have the chance to own one.
Harry Winston Opus Series
Harry Winston may be best known for its jewelries, but for watch collectors, Harry Winston carries a treasure trove of excellent watches as well.
One of the most defining collections in the industry is none other than the Opus series. Incepted by Max Büsser, the concept is to bring together some of the brightest minds within the independent watchmaking scene to produce timepieces that are literally out of this world. Amongst the many exceptional pieces, the Opus 3 – produced in collaboration with Vianney Halter – is perhaps one of our favourites with its unique digital display.
Over the years, Harry Winston had worked with some of the brightest watchmakers – including the likes of François-Paul Journe, Felix Baumgartner, Greubel Forsey, and Christophe Claret. We dare say that they have produced some of the most incredible watches throughout the life of the series, and it is definitely a movement that has helped to spawn the growth and interest in independent watchmaking.
Concluding Thoughts
Naturally, buying a watch from a non-traditional watch manufacturer is not something that many will pursue. After all, it is perceived that these brands’ expertise lies in something else, and not producing timepieces.
However, this may not be the case. As highlighted by the six watches above, some of these non-traditional watch manufacturers have produced watches that can compete with some of the incumbents in the scene. This is largely because significant investments have been made in their respective timepiece departments, and some of these brands have also collaborated or partnered with specialised suppliers (such as movement, dial, and case manufacturers). This means that they are able to create exceptional watches, without necessarily having the same amount of expertise or resources as compared to a full-fledged watch manufacturer.
So, what are your thoughts on our selection today? Will you take that leap of faith with some of these brands? Let us know in the comments section below.
