Favre Leuba releases two additional dial colour options to their Chief Chronograph collection, viz British Racing Green and a sand colour which they call Dune.
Press Release information with commentary in italics.
Favre Leuba Chief Chronograph in British Racing Green and Dune
The Favre Lauba Chief Chronograph in British Racing Green and Dune both carry the same retail price as follows:
- CHF 4,375 in steel bracelet
- CHF 4,300 in rubber strap
Commentary
The two Favre Leuba novelties are in addition to the existing Chief Chronograph collection released in 2024. As we have not discussed the collection on our pages before, we decided to cover the release. The novelties join the existing 3 dial variants by offering two additional dial options, viz a very beautiful British Racing Green and a sandy coloured dial which they call Dune. All dials are available in either a bracelet or in a strap.
The basic cushion-shaped case is quite reminiscent of watches designed in the 1970s, and carries this theme quite well, with the chunky appearance of the case with gently sloped facets cut into the case which transitions into the shoulders and lugs.
The bracelet is a two link design which looks quite nice. And the rubber strap features a style groove which accentuates the design.
The movement is a rather nice number by La Joux-Perret, and features a classical column wheel design which bi-compax counters in a horizontal layout on the sub-dials. The 3 o’clock sub-dial carries the 30 minute totaliser while the running seconds is shown at the sub-dial at 9 o’clock.
Pricing is interesting. As the two new variations are pitched at exactly the same price as existing models. CHF 4,375 for the bracelet model, and CHF 4,300 in rubber strap. We continue to marvel that the bracelet option is only a CHF 75 premium over the rubber strap.
Release details
After the introduction of the Chief Chronograph in 2024, a collection inspired by the Favre Leuba chronograph watches of the 1970s, with cushion-shaped cases, the collection now features two refined dial colors: British Racing Green and Dune. These new variants build on the model’s distinctive design, offering fresh character while staying true to the collection’s roots.
A Dial Born From Over 100 Steps
When the Chief Chronograph was revived in 2024, it quickly distinguished itself through its dial. Showcasing remarkable complexity and depth, each dial undergoes a process involving more than a hundred distinct stages. The result is a multi-dimensional canvas where multiple finishes interplay: a sunburst main dial, circular brushed sub-dials, and a ribbed contour pattern that adds structural and visual dynamism. Executing these layers demands absolute precision, not only in texture but in the uniform application of color across the dial’s undulating surfaces.
That complexity narrows the field when it comes to choosing colors. Only a few can withstand the process and still emerge with clarity, brilliance, and balance. Following the success of the original blue, black, and ice blue variants, British Racing Green and Dune now join the collection; hues carefully tested and perfected to meet Favre Leuba’s uncompromising standards.
The Chief Chronograph British Racing Green
The Chief Chronograph British Racing Green presents a bold, spirited take on a legendary color. Born in 1903 with Britain’s racing pioneers, it became the shade of legends: of roaring engines, glistening chrome, and champions who raced not for comfort, but for glory. Favre Leuba now brings that storied hue to the adventurer’s wrist, capturing its heritage while reimagining it for modern exploration.
The rich green hue shifts with every movement — forest-bright in sunlight, darker and moodier under overcast skies. A sunray finish enhances its vibrance, while contrasting tones frame the edges and sub-dials, adding balance and structure. Mechanical and purposeful, this bold new version adapts the green of racing legends for an adventurer’s wrist.
The Chief Chronograph Dune
The Chief Chronograph Dune offers a more understated elegance. Its warm, sandy hue sits between beige and soft gold, layered over a brushed and sunray-finished dial. Refined, contrasting tones, along with the lush rose gold–hued hands and markers, create a sense of balance and harmony across the dial’s architectural layout — subtle, yet undeniably distinctive.
Streamlined Proportions, Elevated Wearability
Both variants feature the Chief’s signature 41 mm cushion-shaped case in stainless steel, with brushed and polished finishes for a balanced look. At 14mm thick, it offers excellent wearability, while the case is water-resistant to 10 ATM.
Each piece is offered with an integrated, two-link, steel bracelet featuring brushed and polished finishes, and an additional FKM rubber strap — delivering comfort, versatility, and a seamless aesthetic.
Powered by Precision
Inside the case, visible through the transparent sapphire crystal caseback, is the FLC02 automatic chronograph movement, developed in close partnership with La Joux-Perret. This high-performance caliber features a thermally blued column wheel, ensuring precise chronograph engagement. A column wheel offers greater precision and accuracy than a cam-actuated mechanism, and in the Chief Chronograph watches, this component undergoes an intricate bluing process that also enhances its hardness. This meticulous procedure requires absolute precision — even the slightest deviation means starting over from the beginning.
The dial presents a horizontal bi-compax arrangement of the sub-dials, with a 30-minute chronograph counter at three o’clock and running seconds at nine. This layout not only enables an at-a-glance reading of elapsed minutes and seconds, but also contributes to a cleaner, more balanced, and highly legible display.
The movement features beautiful Geneva stripes, perlage, and thermally blued screws on the main caliber. It is topped by a skeletonized rotor adorned with a spiral-brushed colimaçonnage and sunburst soleillage.
Favre Lauba Chief Chronograph Specifications
Case: Stainless steel with brushed and polished finishes, water-resistant to 10 ATM, curved sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating, sapphire crystal caseback, and crown with embossed monogram
Diameter: 41 mm
Thickness: 14 mm
Movement: FLC02, self-winding column wheel chronograph caliber, 68-hour power reserve, 28,800 vph (4 Hz) frequency, 24 jewels, Côtes de Genéve, blued screws, and perlage
Functions: Small seconds, chronograph, tachymeter
Dial: Sunray base finish, circular brushing on sub-dials, 3D logo set inside dial, inner ring tachymeter with printed details, multi-faceted hands and applied indices with brushing and sandblasting, Super-LumiNova X1 with a blue glow on hands and indexes
Bracelet: Two-link integrated steel bracelet, vertical brushing and polished center links. Equipped with an easy-change mechanism, secured with a butterfly clasp
Strap: Durable FKM rubber straps available in dune and green colors to match the dial, secured with a stainless steel pin buckle engraved with the Favre Leuba logo
