Diamonds are Forever: Six Diamond Watches for New Age Men

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“Diamonds are Forever” as said by Ian Fleming on his fourth James Bond novel. Today, we cover watches that are bejewelled for the New Age Men who doesn’t mind a little BLING!

Six Diamond Watches for New Age Men

Today’s article is on diamond watches for the New Age Man, I am not going to feature watches that are fully “ice-out” like a typical rapper’s watch. The Jacob & Co. Billionaire or the Louis Moinet Diamond Tourbillon comes to mind for that, but will talk about something a little more subtle. A little more wearable on a daily basis. More discreet. More subtle.

Left: Jacob&Co. Billionaire (Ruby in this case but Diamond is available) Right: Louis Moinet Diamond Tourbillion


The second reason that I am covering this topic as diamonds is very much part of my life since I was born. A stone that I hold close to heart due to some personal reasons which made me want to have it on my wrist. And there is a watch that I saw from Watches and Wonders that inspired this article, read on to find out which. So without further ado, let’s begin!

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396G-017

I am not going to lie, this is the watch that got me writing today’s article. Yes, it is the second time I am writing about it in a month, perhaps like a broken record. However, this watch is the one that left me yearning to see it again and wanting to own it so much that it is one of my motivation at working hard for it. Think about it this way, the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Ref. 5396G-017 is that dream girl you managed to ask out for a romantic dinner. And had a little kiss when you sent her home, and like a proper gentleman, you left immediately after. Day and night keep thinking of that moment and you can never stop forgetting the kiss. But somehow, perhaps you are unable to get together with her due to circumstances in life? Yes that’s the exact situation that I have with the 5396G-017 right now.


The said Patek Philippe Annual Calendar is the watch that I have had on my wrist the most this past Watches and Wonders. EVERY SINGLE MEETING I had with the Patek Philippe folks during the said fair, I would strap the watch during the duration of the meeting. I was like howling at it’s beauty like a dog in heat (cues Michael Bublé’s I’m your Man). I have reviewed it in my WWG24 pick, the movement is nothing new as it is the same as the current generation of Ref. 5296. BUT it is more. Much more! The brilliance of twelve baguette diamond hour-markers with the combined size of 0.26 ct. completely sweeps me off my feet. And so discreet that only with a detailed look, the watch reveals the baguette diamond indices. Basking in the glory of the sunburst blue dial with black-gradient rim. Screams of stealth wealth while being a timeless beauty.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Eight Days Perpetual White Gold / Diamond Index Ref. 1613401

Should one be wanting a watch that is a little more complicated than the Patek above, enter the Master Eight Days Perpetual White Gold with Diamond Indices from the watchmaker’s watchmaker. The watch has a hand wound movement featuring the power reserve of eight days. It has two barrels which drives the power reserve indicator, date, month, year, day and even a moon phase.


The attention to detail on this watch is amazing where we have the hour indices and the crown that the maison have set diamonds on it to distinguish itself against its siblings with stainless steel case or platinum case.

The JLC’s white dial is even more stealthy, and the 40mm case diameter is just about perfect as a gentleman’s watch.

Audemar Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin With Diamond Indexes In Platinum (15206PT) 

Third watch and the first of the integrated bracelet sports watch, we have the Father of the category. The Audemar Piguet Royal Oak (APRO) that’s designed by the maestro Mr Gerald Genta. The APRO was initially conceptualised as a luxury stainless steel watch. It is also the watch that single handedly saved Audemar Piguet during the Quartz Crisis in the 1970s.

This particular iteration of the Royal Oak Jumbo Extra-Thin With Diamond Indexes In Platinum (15206PT) is a limited edition of 70 pieces specially for Audemar Piguet Japanese retailer, Yoshida in Tokyo. We reviewed the regular model from the regular collection Ref. 15206ST in steel here. There are two iteration of this Royal Oak intended for the Japanese market. One in Platinum and one in Rose Gold (limited to 30 pieces). My choice is definitely the Platinum one that screams stealth wealth in the loudest but the most discreet manner. The black onyx dial has 12 diamond indices set on it to depict the hours.

Parmigiani Tonda PF Automatic Steel Warm Grey

Right! Another Integrated Sports Watch from the famous Parmigiani. Frankly, this is a brand that many have yet to understand but once you do, the obsession of it is real! During my trip to Switzerland, I had the pleasure of visiting their Manufacture which consisted of 5 pillars. Movement maker (Vaucher), Dial maker (Quadrance et Habillage), Case maker (Les Artisans Boîtiers), turning machine manufacturer (Elwin) and gear train components manufacturer (Atokalpa), all coming together to form Parmigiani the watch brand. All of the above was made possible by one SINGLE family. The Sandoz family of Novartis fame!

The amusing thing about the Manufacture is how they also manufacture movements, dials and case for many famous watch brands that I am currently unable to divulge. During the tour, it was an eye opening experience that made me want and here’s the one that caught my eye!

My pick for this list is the Parmigiani Tonda PF Automatic Steel Warm Grey is a 36mm Steel Watch with a warm grey Grain d’Orge guilloché dial. On the hand-made guilloché dial, it features 12 VVS clarity baguette diamond that sums up to 0.36ct. What appeals to me on top of the gorgeous hand-made dial is the 36MM size. This few years, we noticed the reduction of sizes in watches to make it more ergonomical and back to the classy vibe. This checks all the boxes of the critera PLUS, listen up boys! This will be a great watch to share with your significant other due to the size or perhaps a great gift for her while you admire it’s beauty across the table during a romantic candlelight dinner. Hey, it’s brownie points for us isn’t it when we stare at her… Or her watch.

Czapek Antarctique La Carte Des Nuages Stormy Grey S

The last and final integrated sports watch that we are covering this week belongs to Czapek. We can always count on Xavier de Roquemaurel and his team to conceptualise something gorgeous and fun! The Czapek Antarctique La Carte Des Nuages Stormy Grey S is no exception.

What appeals to me on this Czapek is the bold use of Mother of Peal (MOP) dial that is rarely seen on watches for gentleman. I remember back in the 70s and 80s where maisons like Piaget and Chopard would have fancy dials and some of my family friends who are more flamboyant would don these watches for dinner. The use of such material seems to have become rare sights these days. Perhaps a trend that I would like to see coming back moving forward. This particular example of MOP dial has six fine guilloché gridlines and due to MOP being a fragile material, having guilloché is certainly not an easy feat. The chances of it cracking is higher with each time it is worked on. Complimenting the dial is a pair of ‘Antarctique cut’ diamonds marking 12, and a Princess cut diamond set at each of the 11 other hours.

Aesthetics aside, the watch is the same Antarctique we have grown to love. And do check outthe movement! Seated within the 38.5MM case is an in-house micro-rotor movement. Micro-movement might not be something new for many but with such a small case size, having to squeeze so many components in it while ensuring sufficient torque to charge up the main barrel takes more effort to make it a reality than one would expect.

Casio G-Shock 35th Anniversary GA-135DD-1ADR

Finally, let’s round up the 6 watches with something a little more affordable. Something that we all as layman could still get without selling a kidney or part of our liver for. The Casio G-Shock 35th Anniversary GA-135DD-1ADR.

The Casio G-Shock 35th Anniversary GA-135DD-1ADR is a watch that was released in 2018 commemorating the 35th Anniversary of the “God-Tier” (shoutout to Nico Leonard) brand. This stealthy looking diamond index watch features 4 natural diamonds at 12, 3, 7, and 9 o’clock positions. The diamond at the 7 o’clock position has a gold ion-plated metal ring around it is to symbolise the 35th Anniversary the brand.

Honestly, it’s just me, I would definitely prefer this over those iced out aftermarket, original Casio warranty voided G-Shock. It only takes a true G-Shock connoisseur to spot this beauty. Perhaps just a food for thought. Do you know why the diamond at 7 o’clock position so special?

Special Mention: Patek Philippe Ref. 6301A-010

Only Watch auction have just happened this past Friday, 10th May 2024. The Ref. 6301A-010 is Patek Philippe’s submission to the charity auction and it is won by the same buyer as the record setting Patek Philippe Tiffany & Co. Nautilus fame.


What caught my attention was the Rare Handcrafts (RHC) dial with hand-guilloched swirling pattern visible beneath a Grand Feu blue green enamel (flinqué enamel technique). I vaguely remember visiting the RHC exhibition at Patek Philippe Geneva’s Boutique on the first day of Watches and Wonders 2024. See the @Deployant IG Highlights for video clips of that visit. At the Salon, have a guilloché master demonstrating the use of a traditional rose machine which truly impresses me. On this immaculate guilloché dial, are set 12 baguette-cut diamonds as hour markers (0.45 ct).

Secondly, the movement is an impressive feat where it features a Grande and Petite Sonnerie and a Minute Repeater chiming on three classic gongs. Furthermore, it features my current latest obsession, the jumping seconds at 6 o’clock.

Conclusion

Who says men couldn’t carry off diamonds? There we have it! 9 watches in all today! 7 being in the region of stealth wealth where the diamonds are mainly hidden in the dial and it takes a little more attention to notice the details while the other 2 are ones that make known to others that it is fully iced out.

Personally, I really like the watches that have diamonds on the indices. It is quite impressive feat to me as the dial is so thin however the respective dial makers managed to set diamonds on it. Subtle, understated and very nuanced.

With the above being said, watches is an expression where one could show their individuality. Tell us what you are into: stealthy diamonds or full on screaming diamond encrusted watches. Share if you like diamonds on your watches or you prefer no bling at all! Till next week folks!

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