Let’s get back to the basics! Complimenting our third episode of the deployant show on youtube, here is our shortlist of luxury watch for first timers with a budget of SGD 10,000.
The Collecting Journey: Six picks for your First Luxury Watch
We recently published a video answering the age old question on what should be the considerations when buying your first watch to start off your collector journey. This article will further elaborate on it and recommend a shortlist of 6 watches.
But first, let’s recap on the 3 Main Criteria that we are looking for in our first watch.
- Price: It should be something that we would be able to afford comfortably without much of a stretch to your finances. Of course, this could be anything, so as a start point, we chose 6 watches within the range of SGD 10,000.
- Job and Daily Habits: Your watch should be something that accompanies you every day, from going to work to your daily activities. It should be practical but gives your personal flair to it. A bit of your personality and style.
- Complications and Aesthetics: Choosing a watch is just like finding your partner in life. It has to first be aesthetically pleasing to the eyes and has a complication that will.
Without further ado, these are our 6 choice watches for a collector to start their collection with!
Time Only: Tudor Blackbay 54
First up! A time only watch. A time only watch refers to watches without any complications other than telling the time. It is a watch that is no frills and features a clean dial as well when there are no other complications.
Our recommendation for the time only first watch is the Tudor Blackbay 54. They come in two variants either in bracelet form or rubber strap. The bracelet variant is priced at SGD 5,780 while the rubber variant is priced at SGD 5,470 including tax at the time of writing.
The Blackbay 54 was first released during 2024 Watches and Wonders. The reception it got from the press to collectors was impressive. It is regarded as the most true-to-form example of TUDOR’s first dive watch, ref. 7922 released in 1954. The 37mm case retains the classic proportions of yesteryear, yet boasts the robust automatic Manufacture Calibre MT5400 with 60 hours of power reserve.
The watch is fitted with the Tudor T-Fit clasp. The T-Fit clasp enables the wearer to adjust the bracelet up to 20mm without any tools. This is watch which certainly turns the heads. Not only for the seasoned collector, with kudos to the heritage, but also as admiring glances to the improvements implemented by Tudor. And for the newbie, this is a watch that could be worn while dressed up or dressed down.
GMT: Grand Seiko SBGM003/SBGM221
Our next pick is one with a complication for a frequent traveler. The GMT (Greenwich Mean Time) complication enables the user to see two time zone at once. One being the home time and the other being a “Local time”.
Our pick of a GMT watch for a first time collector is the Grand Seiko SBGM003/SBGM221. It is priced at SGD 6,500 including tax at the time of writing.
Grand Seiko is a name that resonates with most senior collectors. The watch has a decidedly very accomplished aesthetics, with its gorgeous zaratsu finish on the case, hands and indices. The treatment of the case and dial is certainly at a very high level. And while the movement finishing is more modest, it still punches above its weight class. We think it is one watch which is the cornerstone of any collection. Chester deemed it as “… right amount of hand-made, the right amount of mechanical superiority, the right amount of manufacturer pedigree and ‘had’ the right price.”
The latest generation is the SBGM 221. The watch is cased with a fully in-house 9S66 automatic movement which features a 72 hours power reserve which could be seen from the display case back. From our understanding, our Chief Editor has his SBGM003 for almost 20 years, it has not been serviced but still keeps good time! Now talk about the testament of robustness with form and beauty!
Chronograph: Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph
Third, a chronograph. Chronographs are watches with a stopwatch function which enable the wearer to measure intervals of time without affecting the time-telling function of the watch.
Our choice chronograph watch for a first time collector is the Tissot PRX Automatic Chronograph. It is priced at SGD 2,680 including tax at the time of writing.
When Tissot first released the PRX range, watch collectors went into a frenzy. It was one of the least expensive integrated bracelet watches in the market and during that time.
The Tissot PRX Choronograph has 42mm case which equates a larger wrist presence. The dial features tri-compax layout, with the running seconds hand at the 9 o’clock position. Cased with the “industry standard” Valjoux A05.H31 movement, a self-winding/automatic movement with chronograph complication. Power reserve is a healthy 60 hours. At this a price point, the Tissot PRX Chornograph is a great watch for an individual who wants to start their collection with a chronograph with the popular integrated bracelet watch and a “bulletproof” movement.
Annual Calendar: Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar
Fourth, an annual calendar complication. It is a complication that displays the day, date and month. An annual calendar only requires adjustment once a year at the end of February to ensure the correct date is displayed. As we all know, February is a shorter month and leap years occur every four years, which the watch is unable to account for. But the watch automatically accounts for the short months with 30 days, and as well as the ones with 31 days.
Our choice annual calendar watch for a first time collector is the Longines Master Collection Annual Calendar. The 40MM is priced at SGD 3,740 while the 42MM retails for SGD 3,870 including tax at the time of writing.
Longines is known to make complicated watches while making it budget friendly, and this Master Collection Annual Calendar is a good example. The Annual Calendar is usually a complication found on haute horlogerie brands like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and the like. Longines have figured a way to bring it to collectors who are more budget conscious.
The movement is designed by ETA, whick is also a part of the Swatch Group together with Longines. The base movement is an automatic ETA2892-A2. And modified to include an annual calendar module. It is a workhorse movement which is able to withstand the test of time. The movement features 64 hours of power reserve with finishes are adequate for an industrial machined movement. For the detail oriented collectors, we could observe classical perlage and the Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement.
Power Reserve Indicator: Bell & Ross BR-X5
Fifth up! A power reserve indicator. It is a complication which shows how much power is left in the watch’s mainspring before it needs to be wounded. The mainspring is a spiral torsion spring of metal ribbon that stores energy which in turn drives the movement of the watch.
Our choice watch that features a power reserve indicator is none other than the Bell & Ross BR-X5. Retail price starts at SGD 9,900 including tax at the time of writing.
The Bell & Ross BR-X5 is a handsome sports watch that caters to aviation enthusiast. Bell & Ross is known to make watches that are inspired by the aviation instrument cluster. Therefore, the four basic principles of legibility, functionality, reliability and precision are paramount to them.
The BR-X5 encompasses all the basic principles and also features a Kenissi manufactured movement. Which is kind of a big thing. In our opinion, the Kenissi manufactured movements are superior to the ubiquitious Selita and ETA movements. The automatic BR-Cal.323 features a 70 hours power reserve with chronometer grade specification. The movement is COSC certified, the certification means that the accuracy of the watch falls within the variance of -4 and +6 seconds per day.
Hour Striker: Christopher Ward Bel Canto
Finally, an hour striker. This complication features a mechanism that strikes a gong or bell at the top of each hour. It is a rare complication to find on entry level watches as it is usually not cheap and requires a fair bit of research and development.
Our choice watch that features an hour striker complication is the very popular Christopher Ward Bel Canto. The retail price starts at SGD 5,195 including tax at the time of writing.
The Bel Canto is a watch that has recently risen to fame due to the interesting striking complication coupled with good finishing. This is a rare complication to be found at this price. It is christened as Bel Canto – translated from Italian to Beautiful Song, hinting at the chiming capabilities of this watch.
The Bel Canto uses the automatic Sellita SW200-1 as the base timekeeping train with the in-house Christopher Ward FS01 module for the striking works. The FS01 striking module is completely exhibited on the dial side. This construction is very clever, as it is a very simple system to actuate the striking mechanism. The finishing choices made are also very well chosen. Parts of the case, which the user can feel and touch are very nicely machined, polished and matted. The feel of the case is very nice. While parts which are not visible or can be touched are kept to a more modest engineering finish. Par for the course, especially at this low price point.
Conclusion
There we have it! Our choice watches with different complications to compliment your daily life! Please share with us in the comments section what is the watch started your journey and what got you interested in the world of horology.
