Despite being an annual event, Watches & Wonders in Geneva (and its previous incarnation) never gets old. You think you’ve seen it all, then bam, the best of the best in watchmaking show you you’re wrong. This year we’ve seen some heavy-hitting ultra-complicated watches – including the new most complicated wristwatch ever made – and many other beautifully designed ones. While I’ve always appreciated crazy mechanics and complications, I lean evermore towards good design with each passing year. This year’s selection of my favourite pieces from Watches & Wonders Geneva is evidence of my growing inclination towards well-designed pieces
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds
Forget complications and space age materials, it is the time-only and very shiny Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds that has stolen the show. The main highlight of the watch is its unmissable pink gold Milanese bracelet. Rarely, if ever, will you see a Reverso on a mesh bracelet in the wild. If you’ve ever seen one, surely it does not look as good as this. The quality of the bracelet is exquisite. Every bead is perfectly polished and they flow smoothly together as a bracelet. The bracelet is matched with a pink gold case and a grained, pink gold dial; it is literally full pink gold, and it is glorious. This watch is what happens when design is prioritised, and not placed as an afterthought. I would have preferred if it was yellow gold instead for even more flair, but that might be too jarring for most.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Geographic
Grande date on one side, world timer on the other, in a swiveling Reverso case – there’s not much more I could ask for. The world time display is easy on the eyes with the world map relief engraved and filled with lacquer. Unlike the typical world timer, the one in the Reverso Tribute Geographic has a rotating 24-hour, day/night ring that can be adjusted via a pusher between the lugs. While the stainless steel variant is handsome, it is the pink gold version that I prefer by far. The brown dial, pink gold land mass for the world map, and the luscious brown strap complements the pink gold case to a tee; the entire piece exudes warmth and flair. The only downside I can think of for the Reverso Tribute Geographic is its size, which is on the larger side of things at 49.4mm lug-to-lug and 11.14mm in thickness. The average wrist will be able to wield it, but maybe not with grace.
A. Lange & Söhne 1815
At first glance, this seems like such an uninspiring pick. But the new 1815 may as well be a completely different watch compared to previous iterations of the model. There’s been an ongoing trend of brands downsizing watches lately but it’s A. Lange & Söhne that’s boldly going where no other manufacturers dare go. Before this year, the 1815 clocked in at an elegant 38.5 mm, a size that many would deem small by contemporary standards. The newest 1815 is now only 34mm, courtesy of a significant 12% reduction in size. Most manufacturers are doing cutesy size reductions for the sake of following a trend, but Lange’s 4.5mm knockdown on the 1815 means business. This takes the 1815 from contemporary dress watch to classical dress watch territory – a purist’s wet dream. Shaving 4.5mm off an already small watch changes its profile completely and it is brave moves in the right direction like this that puts a smile on my face. Make no mistake, this decision by Lange isn’t without risk, because it absolutely risks alienating potential buyers who prefer modern sizes. But in return, the 1815 moves ever closer to what it’s supposed to be: a proper dress watch that respects tradition.
And if that’s not cool enough, Lange have even given the 1815 a brand new movement, not just to fit the case but to improve the model. Indeed, despite being smaller, the Calibre L152.1 has a longer power reserve (from 55 to 72 hours) than its predecessor. Movement components and architecture have also been optimised for the calibre’s longevity. Complications are cool and all, but you know what’s even cooler? Movement miniaturisation and optimisation. My only beef with the new 1815 is with its pleasant but out-of-place blue dial. If you’re going all out to appear classical, why come with a dial colour that only became popular in the past decade? Perhaps starting off with a white or silver opaline dial would have been ideal. Nevertheless, this new generation of the 1815 is still awesome and – with the increasing appreciation for smaller watches from the community of late – deserves all the love it can get.
Concluding Thoughts
Don’t get me wrong, highly complicated pieces will always be fun and exciting to me, but sometimes you want the watch to complement you rather than steal all the attention. Sometimes, you want an accessory rather than a showpiece. The three pieces that I’ve picked may not be very complicated (if at all) but are no less interesting by virtue of interesting design. If I could pick only one out of the three pieces here, it’d probably be the Reverso Tribute on the Milanese bracelet, the one that’d ruffle some feathers.
