At Watches and Wonders 2025, I focused on watches that could serve as an “exit watch”—a timepiece so perfect and versatile that it could be the only one you’d ever need. Each of the three selections was chosen based on its ability to balance craftsmanship, technical innovation, and timeless design, making them suitable as a single watch that fulfills a lifetime of horological appreciation.
Armchair Picks: Chester’s 3 of the best new watches from WWG25
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P
The Patek Philippe Calatrava 6196P immediately drew me in with its perfect blend of simplicity and sophistication. The platinum case gives it a commanding presence, while the rose-gilt opaline dial and anthracite-colored white gold hour markers create a subtle yet refined aesthetic. The manual winding caliber 30-255 PS movement is thin, accurate and beautifully finished.
I chose this watch because it embodies timeless elegance and versatility—qualities that make it an ideal candidate for an exit watch. It’s a piece you could wear for decades without it ever feeling out of place, transitioning seamlessly from formal to everyday occasions.
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface
This watch is a celebration of Vacheron Constantin’s 270th anniversary, combining a retrograde date display with a tourbillon in a striking openface design. The platinum case houses the in-house caliber 2162 R31/270, which offers a 72-hour power reserve. The hand-guilloché Maltese cross pattern on the dial adds depth and texture, while the sapphire crystal reveals the intricate movement beneath.
I selected this watch for its avant-garde aesthetic and mechanical sophistication. It’s a bold yet refined choice, showcasing Vacheron Constantin’s ability to innovate while honoring its rich heritage. As an exit watch, it’s a statement piece that balances artistry and functionality.
A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual
Finally, the A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual stands out for its sheer rarity and craftsmanship. Combining a minute repeater and a perpetual calendar within a platinum case with a glossy black enamel dial, it’s a celebration of precision and artistry. Limited to only 50 pieces, this watch is as exclusive as it gets, making it a true collector’s gem.
I chose this watch because it represents the ultimate blend of technical brilliance and visual beauty. As an exit watch, it’s a piece that defines the essence of fine watchmaking, something you could treasure for a lifetime and pass down to future generations.
Conclusion
Each of these watches offers something truly exceptional, whether it’s the timeless versatility of the Calatrava 6196P, the artistic complexity of the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface, or the horological mastery of the A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual. They stand as testaments to the highest standards of watchmaking, capable of serving as an “exit watch”—the one timepiece that could fulfill a lifetime of collecting. For anyone seeking the pinnacle of design, craftsmanship, and functionality in a single watch, these are worth considering.
