The collector’s view features Terence Chan‘s top picks from the new releases from WWG25. Terence also wrote his impressions and commentary on the Vacheron Constantin novelty release.
Armchair Picks: A collector’s favourite new releases from WWG25
I used to have a favorite sofa—a majestic Chesterfield from the 1930s. Deep leather, beautifully worn-in, the perfect throne from which to browse my favorite watch releases. Then kids arrived, and my throne became a casualty of practicality. Now? I don’t even have time to sit on a sofa—what armchair? I can’t even get out of my work chair.
But imaginary furniture aside, nothing stops me from enjoying Watches & Wonders 2025 from afar—sofa or not.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds (Pink Gold Milanese Bracelet)
Elegance meets wrist candy—a deliciously decadent combo that keeps the Reverso timelessly fresh. To be honest, I never imagined the Reverso paired so perfectly with a Milanese bracelet until now; the combination simply feels like it was always meant to be. Jaeger-LeCoultre truly doubled down on luxury, meticulously crafting nearly every part of this watch from warm, inviting 18K pink gold.
The dial itself features a subtle yet captivating grained finish, beautifully accented by polished hands and hour markers—all executed in matching pink gold. Practical exclusions aside—like the sapphire crystal, movement, and what nots—this watch is pure gold, literally and figuratively. It’s a full-bodied flex in 18K. The Milanese bracelet doesn’t just complement the watch—it transforms it into something even more refined, adding a vintage charm I didn’t know I was missing. I do wonder, though, if it would carry the same charm or level of exquisiteness in stainless steel—if there’s ever going to be one
Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface (Ref. 6010T/000P-H055)
Part of Vacheron Constantin’s 270th Anniversary Traditionnelle trio, this piece beautifully balances complexity with tasteful restraint—something rare in the often cluttered landscape of complicated watches. At first glance, there’s a lot vying for your attention: the Maltese-cross tourbillon at 6 o’clock and the retrograde date at the top with its blued 18K gold hand.
But as your eyes adjust, the thoughtful design becomes apparent. There’s a deliberate openness, enhanced by vertical brushing and generous negative space, showcasing intricate layers of gears and discs. I’m still somewhat on the fence about the bold Maltese-cross guilloché motif—but its subtle integration into the openface layout prevents it from overpowering the design. Thankfully, unlike a traditional skeleton, this openface doesn’t inadvertently become a magnifying glass highlighting what lies beneath—hairy wrists and all.
And if you think the front is a marvel, wait till you see the back—it’s really a case of bringing the sexy back, back.
TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph
It was only a matter of time. After last year’s highly sought-after TAG Heuer Formula 1 x Kith edition, the reissue of the classic Formula 1 was inevitable—but this time, it’s not a limited release, which makes it all the more exciting. The Solargraph takes that 90s cool-kid vibe and brings it into 2025 with a sustainable twist.
Back in the day, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 was the watch. I remember my more affluent classmates flexing theirs in school—those vibrant cases, the bold bezels, and of course, the casual reminders that they were operating on a different level of privilege. I told myself I’d get one too someday. Funny enough, my watch journey took a different route, but with this modern reinterpretation, I might finally circle back to where it all began.
The Solargraph runs on solar power, making it a feel-good everyday option. But beyond the specs, I love the release strategy—TAG Heuer is now back as an official sponsor of Formula 1, and they’re rolling these Solargraph models out across the calendar year, timed with Grands Prix around the world. You can bet I’m waiting to see what the Singapore GP version will look like.
Cartier Tank à Guichets
Sometimes, less truly is more. You have no idea how often I’ve heard whispers about this legendary piece among Cartier collectors—second only to the mythic Crash. So when news broke of its return, you could almost hear the collective gasp of delight from the Cartier faithful.
This year’s re-release is everything we hoped for: available in yellow gold, rose gold, and platinum, all featuring the signature jump hour layout housed in that refined, rectangular case. But the real curveball? The limited edition Guichet “Oblique”—a run of 200 pieces. With its diagonally oriented windows, it immediately brings to mind the Tank Asymétrique. Oddball but elegant. Or maybe… elegantly odd? Either way, I’m into it.
What makes the Guichet special, beyond its layout, is how it speaks to the heart of the Tank design ethos. It’s clean and deceptively simple. But spend a moment with it—really look—and you’ll notice the polished chamfers, the nuanced brushing across the case, the soft curvature of the lugs. It’s minimalism with depth.
And if I may be bold for a moment: this is how you do a vintage reissue. It feels truer and more refined than, say, Vacheron’s 222 stainless steel release earlier this year. (Please don’t cancel me, VC—I still love you. Signed, your loyal fanboy.) The Guichet proves once again that Cartier can dip into its archives and return with something timeless, fresh, and quietly spectacular.
Grand Seiko Ultra-Fine Accuracy (SLGB001 & SLGB003)
Grand Seiko has always had its own quiet way of flexing, and the new Ultra-Fine Accuracy models prove they’ve been listening. Yes, the ±20 seconds per year Spring Drive movement is impressive. Yes, the dial is stunning. But let’s be honest, the real news is, they finally gave us a micro-adjustment bracelet.
It’s a feature fans have been asking for—practically begging for—for years. Honestly, it’s been one of the few things holding me back from owning one. So when I saw that the titanium SLGB003 comes equipped with a beautifully engineered micro-adjust clasp, it felt like Grand Seiko had reached through the screen and said, “You there, yes you—this one’s for you.”
Now back to the watch. The dial features the understated “UFA” mark just above 6 o’clock—a gentle nod to Grand Seiko’s Ultra-Fine Accuracy standard. It’s not loud or boastful, but it adds just enough character to match the applied GS logo at 12. Together, the two elements frame the dial with a quiet confidence that feels very… Grand Seiko.
Both versions share the same dial pattern, inspired by frost-tipped trees near the Shinshu Watch Studio and Kirigamine Highlands in winter. The titanium model leans toward a silvery blue, while the platinum limited edition (just 80 pieces) offers a richer, more vibrant blue hue. I genuinely wonder how Grand Seiko continues to extract this much inspiration from nature—but I’m not complaining.
This release isn’t just about beauty or accuracy—it’s about refinement. Thoughtful updates, subtle cues, and long-requested improvements that make all the difference.
The titanium version, in particular, feels like the gateway piece for anyone who’s been GS-curious but hesitant to commit. And if you’re already a believer, the platinum limited edition is a frosty grail worth chasing.
Final Thoughts
So there you have it—my Watches & Wonders 2025 picks, curated from the depths of an imaginary Chesterfield, fueled by coffee, nostalgia, and far too many open tabs. Whether it’s pink gold Reversos or rainbow dials, this year’s releases reminded me why I love watches in the first place: they’re tiny machines with big personalities. And even if I never own most of these, just admiring them from afar is half the joy. Until next year—happy collecting (even if it’s just on your browser bookmarks bar).
